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Holey Guacamoley
5.14a YDS 8b+ French 32 Ewbanks X+ UIAA 32 ZA E8 7a British
Avg: 4 from 1
vote
Routes in Mothership Cliff
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Barracuda S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Bird of Prey S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Blood Sport S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Catch and Release S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Don't Call it a Comeback S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Excelsior S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Fight Club S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Holey Guacamoley S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a |
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Holey Mackerel S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a |
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Holey Wars S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Living Dead S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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More Hypocrisy S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Northern Pike S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Piranha S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Sea Monkey S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Space Debris S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Steelhead S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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You call that a come on? S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
| Type: | Sport, 80 ft (24 m) |
| FA: | Fan Yang, Nov 2021 |
| Page Views: | 458 total · 42/month |
| Shared By: | Fan Y on Mar 6, 2024 |
| Admins: | Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
Access Issue: Bridges Out! IMPORTANT LADWP NEGOTIATIONS!!
Details
1) Never park or camp overnight at the access points.
2) Always park off the pavement, taking great care to avoid blocking the gates.
3) Clean up after your dogs. (Local climbers are finding abandoned doggie poop bags.)
4) Pack out all trash and TP, including picking up after others.
5) Use the outhouses if at all possible.
Access Issue: Raptor Nesting Climbing Avoidance
Details
Description
Alongside Holey Wars and Holey Mackerel, they make the Holey trifecta of the ORG.
A set of anchor bolts were put up by Todd Graham some years ago but then it just sat abandoned. I checked in with Todd and got the green light to bolt the whole line in 2021.
It's a special route with funky mind-blowing good moves. It's very slightly overhanging yet climbs like a slab. Techy, powerful, it has jugs, nothing crimps, pockets, underclings, side pulls, and most importantly, often nothing for feet. I broke so many important holds in the process of trying it, eventually I stopped counting but I never lost the desire. I reinforced nothing, glued nothing, and chipped nothing. It's a minimalistic climb for those who seek out this style. I'm happy to say now there is really nothing left that can break.
First 5.14 in the ORG. As far as I know, as of spring 2024 it has one repeat by Alex Honnold who confirmed the grade.
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