Type: Trad, 120 ft (36 m)
FA: Dennis Bird, Chris Wegener (1971)
Page Views: 73 total · 5/month
Shared By: the rock bobster on Feb 23, 2024
Admins: Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes, Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest

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Description Suggest change

After starting on a flake, jam up a crack and get into the chimney. Towards the top, choose either a nice chimney on the right or a gritty handcrack on the left to surmount the final pillar. Easy scramble off climber's left

The approach for this climb is slightly annoying due to vegetation. First option: scramble up talus and traverse right while hugging the base, then up a small water groove before climbing a small block with a paddle cacti to the base. Second less-ideal option: traverse right below the vegetation before heading up to Hyperion, then battle the Cat Claw bush for 5ft to the crack. I'd recommend not leaving packs near the base.

Location Suggest change

First large gully left of Hyperion - a few other cracks start up the main formation a little way up this route.

Protection Suggest change

Standard rack, a #4 might be nice.

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