PRINT: Rock Climb Exquisite Geometry, Red Rocks

Exquisite Geometry

5.9 PG13, Trad, 175 ft (53 m), 3 pitches,

Avg: 3 from 2 votes
FA: Dylan Russ and William Thiry, Feb 2024
Nevada > Southern Nevada > Red Rocks > (05) Sandstone… > Parking Lot Area > Front Corridor > Right Wall

Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. Details

Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm, the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby.

HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).

Description

This intriguing mystery climb ascends a hidden 3-dimensional line up a dark, deep slot in the back of the front corridor.

Pitch 1: (30 feet, 5.8) Chimney up past two protection bolts. A medium-sized cam protects the exit moves onto the ledge where a 2-bolt anchor awaits. Depending on your height and chimney experience this pitch could feel 5.7 or 5.9. Pro tip: the rope wants to get pinched in the crack at the apex of the chimney, so consider placing a cam there to keep it out.

Pitch 2: (90 feet, 5.9) Walk 20 feet deeper into the darkness and figure out how to make the first few moves onto the polished black rock on your right. We unlocked two different strategies. Again, depending on your height, this could be a short 10a section. (Hint, a secret bomber hold awaits the tall / bold climber.) After the initial move or two you'll get a good small cam placement. Continue right and up a narrow ramp, then ascend the pink tower. The tower has delicate rock so it'll seem intimidating. However, climbing with tender loving care and liberal use of the back wall (i.e., chimney moves) will mitigate most anxiety. So will the two protection bolts you'll encounter. Cam placements can be found along the way by reaching to the crack at the left edge of the tower. We employed a 5-inch cam down near the start of the tower (which was marginal) but a bold leader can do without. Good 5.7 moves with a little commitment await you at the tower top out, where it's advised to set up a gear belay.

Pitch 3: (55 feet, 5.6) Ascend the obvious and pleasant crack to the top. A #4 cam comes in handy on this pitch (walk it up or bring two). Options for a gear anchor are available at the top.

Combining pitches 2 and 3 is possible but you risk rope drag and running out of gear.

Descend by walking around the right side of the (usually dry) pool and scrambling up a chute. Walk south down the slickrock which takes you back to the parking lot. This walk off takes a leisure 15 minutes.

Location

At the far back of the Front Corridor.

Protection

Single rack of cams to 3-inches. Extra cams from 1-inch to 5-inches recommended.

Stoppers wouldn't be very useful on this route.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

View looking up from the bottom of pitch 3

Top of pitch 2 looking down. there is a shelf on the other side of the canyon independent of the climb

Bill topping out pitch 1, The lower part of front corridor in the background, Mt Wilson looming in the distance, a consistent figure peering through the mouth of the canyon throughout the climb

View of the top half of pitch 3 from across the canyon. Route follows the primary crack on the left forming the dihedral

Top of Pitch 1 - The first shelf

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

William Thiry
Las Vegas

5.9 PG13

The delicate nature of the pink tower on pitch 2 will not be to everyone's liking. However, the setting is spectacular and the 3-dimensional climbing is highly engaging. This route is a treat for adventurous trad souls. Feb 21, 2024

Dylan Russ
Las Vegas, NV

Fantastic climb right near the parking lot that promotes chimney moves all the way up. I really had to look all around me for holds. And they were always in a perfect spot once you found them. As the description says the first pitch is well protected with the bolts and an additional piece to pull the bulge. The start of the second pitch is quite boldery and can be a bit reachy. Have your belayer spot you until the first placement. The buttress (as william nicely dubbed the "pink tower") is not for the faint of heart. It is chossy. Id recommend having the belayer stand back from it just in case. But if you handle her with care she will treat you well with some nice slopers to hug. In the more delicate spots there are usually safe holds around to grab. The route loves #2-4. Bring as many as possible. Your smallest cam might be beneficial on one move. Feb 26, 2024