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Exquisite Geometry
5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British PG13
Avg: 3 from 2
votes
Routes in Right Wall
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Brawl, The S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Broken Tooth S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Exquisite Geometry T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Fury S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Gun Control S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Hair Today Gone Tomorrow S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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High Noon S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Shouting Match S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Siktion T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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To Bolt or Toupee S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
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Unknown S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
| Type: | Trad, 175 ft (53 m), 3 pitches |
| FA: | Dylan Russ and William Thiry, Feb 2024 |
| Page Views: | 251 total · 21/month |
| Shared By: | William Thiry on Feb 21, 2024 |
| Admins: | Luke EF, Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen |
Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet.
Details
HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).
Description
This intriguing mystery climb ascends a hidden 3-dimensional line up a dark, deep slot in the back of the front corridor.
Pitch 1: (30 feet, 5.8) Chimney up past two protection bolts. A medium-sized cam protects the exit moves onto the ledge where a 2-bolt anchor awaits. Depending on your height and chimney experience this pitch could feel 5.7 or 5.9. Pro tip: the rope wants to get pinched in the crack at the apex of the chimney, so consider placing a cam there to keep it out.
Pitch 2: (90 feet, 5.9) Walk 20 feet deeper into the darkness and figure out how to make the first few moves onto the polished black rock on your right. We unlocked two different strategies. Again, depending on your height, this could be a short 10a section. (Hint, a secret bomber hold awaits the tall / bold climber.) After the initial move or two you'll get a good small cam placement. Continue right and up a narrow ramp, then ascend the pink tower. The tower has delicate rock so it'll seem intimidating. However, climbing with tender loving care and liberal use of the back wall (i.e., chimney moves) will mitigate most anxiety. So will the two protection bolts you'll encounter. Cam placements can be found along the way by reaching to the crack at the left edge of the tower. We employed a 5-inch cam down near the start of the tower (which was marginal) but a bold leader can do without. Good 5.7 moves with a little commitment await you at the tower top out, where it's advised to set up a gear belay.
Pitch 3: (55 feet, 5.6) Ascend the obvious and pleasant crack to the top. A #4 cam comes in handy on this pitch (walk it up or bring two). Options for a gear anchor are available at the top.
Combining pitches 2 and 3 is possible but you risk rope drag and running out of gear.
Descend by walking around the right side of the (usually dry) pool and scrambling up a chute. Walk south down the slickrock which takes you back to the parking lot. This walk off takes a leisure 15 minutes.
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