Le Triolet

4 pitch route. All pitches are rope stretchers, but in good conditions the climbing is pretty moderate, the crux is short and right off the belay.

The name is a reference to a historic first ascent route of the north face of the Aiguille de Triolet in the Mont Blanc Massif. According to the Lapierre and Gagnon guide, this name was chosen because the ascent of this route represented a breakthrough in length and difficulty, just like the first ascent of the Aiguille de Triolet's N Face in 1931. The latter looks like a crap route though. It climbs moderate terrain (AI2, V, 800m) straight through seracs, and was demoted to a ski line by snowboarders in '95. Meanwhile, this route has no serac hazard, is more technically engaging, is unlikely to get skied/snowboarded anytime soon, and is on Guy Lacelle's top ice climbs list. So forget that alpine route and climb this!

P1: 3+.

P2: 4. Steep start that eases off almost immediately and gives way to rolling terrain

P3: 4+. The best most sustained pitch. Bolts on the left at the end on a big snow ramp. Make note for the descent. Pitches below here are somewhat sheltered from overhead hazard thanks to the snow ramp.

P4: 5. After the initial steep curtain (WI5 crux) there's some rolling terrain and a 3+ bulge to finish in the trees.

Descend from the trees to rejoin bolts below the final pitch and then continue descending along the climber's left side of the route. You can skip the last rappel by walking off skiers left along a goat trail (metaphorically speaking) that bypasses the first pitch on climber's right (photo below).

Impossible to miss as you drive into the Haute Gorges. First route you see. Park at Acropole des Draveurs and cross the frozen river or down the road Draveur Visitors Centre, cross the dam and walk back the way you came towards the route on the far side of the river.

2x70m ropes useful. Doable with 60m ropes and some simulclimbing. Screws the whole way.