Amen Ta
WI4 Easy Snow
Avg: 3.7 from 3 votes
Type: | Ice, Snow, 305 ft (92 m), 5 pitches, Grade II |
FA: | Shaun Parent |
Page Views: | 129 total · 12/month |
Shared By: | Matt S on Feb 20, 2024 · Updates |
Admins: | Dave Rone |
Description
"Amen Ta" comes from the ancient Atlantean dialect and translates roughly to "The Hidden Place." Legend has it that prior to the destruction of Atlantis due to meteor impact-induced catastrophic flooding 12,000 years ago, the Atlanteans sequestered a repository of knowledge deep within a mountain cave on what we now know as the Azores Islands. Within this "Hidden Place" lies the secret to the Atlantean's ability to manipulate matter through quantum harmonic resonance, taught by the interdimensional entities that can communicate with humans via psychedelic ceremony.
The climb consists of 1 main money pitch (pitch 2), reached by an access pitch, with 3 mini pitches located beyond separated by short hikes. Pitch 2 can be accessed by scrambling along the sides if you just want to TR the fat pillars, but for the full value, consider a ground up lead all the way to the top.
Pitch 1: 25m. WI2, A lower angle gully with intermittent bulges that leads to a bolted belay on a boulder. After a heavy snow the ice may be largely covered, but it makes a good beginner lead so that all members of your party can contribute.
Pitch 2: 30m. WI4. The money pitch. Large, vertical pillars of ice lead to a series of steep ramps. Lots of real estate to work with here if you want to top rope different portions. A lower-angle route exists off to the right if you want a more mellow lead that can still get you up the route.
Pitch 3: 17m. WI2+. After topping out on pitch 2, slog upwards through the snow and trees for a minute to find another low angle gully capped off by a 3 meter piece of vertical ice.
Pitch 4: 15m. WI3. From the top of pitch 3, you can just barely make out the next sheet of ice. Hike through more snow with a couple short vertical ice steps to reach this wide, bulgy sheet of nice ice.
Pitch 5: 5m. WI3+. Continue plowing onwards from pitch 4 and you will soon see this shining beacon of vertical blue ice glistening through the trees. While the final piece of ice is short, it is a dead vertical so underestimate at your own peril.
Once you surmount this objective, you can squeeze on through the dense woods to reach the Hidden Place, a mountaintop marsh that feeds the entire climb. This site likely goes many years without seeing any human presence.
Descent: A series of raps from trees and tat will get you down. A 60m rope is plenty, twin 60's will get you down from pitch 2 to the base in one go. You can walk off of pitch 5 to save time as well.
Location
On Mile 38 rd, head to Km 17. Around the km17 marker, there will be a pullout on the left with a wooden sign cautioning climbers to only park in plowed pullouts (There's another pullout just before usually, but look for the one with the sign). This road is plowed for and used by loggers so please follow this request.
After parking in a pullout, continue down the road past clusters of flagging tape until you see a trailhead marked by bright neon pink paint with the word "Ice" painted on a tree. Follow this trail for about 10-15 minutes to reach the base of the climb.
Approximate coords on google maps: 47.012969, -84.280452
0 Comments