Type: Trad, 70 ft (21 m)
FA: Andrew Richardson, Carlos Bell 2-7-2024
Page Views: 180 total · 12/month
Shared By: Andrew Richardson on Feb 7, 2024
Admins: Stonyman Killough, Luke Cornejo, saxfiend

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

An intimidating 4 inch roof crack is waiting for anyone bold enough to hike up to it.

Meander up easy terrain to the base of a wide corner. I mostly climbed it like a layback, but I'm sure you could offwidth it if you're into that kind of thing. Either way, a short section of fun crack climbing gets you up to a large ledge. Build an anchor here with hand-sized cams if splitting into two pitches, but the line is certainly doable in one with careful rope management.

Traverse a few feet from the corner crack (or ledge) to the crux roof crack. Throw a piece or two over and behind your head, then jam and find the hidden holds inside the crack. Predictably, the lip turn is gymnastic, burly, or both depending on how you approach it. Crank away!

Much easier alternate finish (The Carl Weathers Memorial Route 5.10-): From the ledge, go straight up over the crack to the left then traverse right to the same trees above the roof crack.

The gear is very good throughout, but loose rock remains a concern given it's seen just a couple ascents.

Location Suggest change

Just right of Serenity Falls. Easiest approach would be to hike the Cibola trail and turn right

Protection Suggest change

A couple #6 for the wide corner, a couple #4 for the roof crack, tree anchor

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