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Routes in The Maiden
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Gates of Galas T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b X |
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Gates of Delirium, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Queen-line T 5.13c/d 8b 31 X 31 E8 7a |
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Kor-Dalke Route T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R |
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Hasta La Hueco S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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South Face T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Eye Of the Storm T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a X |
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Belladonna T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R |
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Southern Seas, The TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Heart of the Sunrise S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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South Crack T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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East Ridge T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Dream Street Rose T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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North Side of the Sky S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Cunning Stunt T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R |
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Direct North Face T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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North Face T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R |
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West Overhang T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Maiden Voyage S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
| Type: | Trad, 230 ft (70 m), 3 pitches |
| FA: | Sasha DiGiulian and Lynn Hill, 2023 |
| Page Views: | 941 total · 62/month |
| Shared By: | Lynn Hill on Feb 5, 2024 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Access Issue: 2024 Crag Closures & Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures
Details
See: bouldercolorado.gov/service….
Click here for the trail closures. Some are M-F, some are 24/7. These impact the Bear Canyon/Fern Canyon regions primarily:
flatironsclimbing.org/tempo…
Click here bouldercolorado.gov/service… for the latest in raptor closures.
Description
The first pitch is mostly bolted, but it's recommended to bring some specific gear. The first pitch is 5.12a, the second pitch is 5.13c, and the third pitch is also 5.13c, but a bit more powerful between good rest holds. The most difficult sections are before the pitch joins "Made in Time" and "Maiden Voyage". After a great rest, the last overhanging section is not too hard if you know where the holds are!
Location
The first pitch starts on the obvious face with bolts to the left of a large tree 30 feet left of the first pitch of Hasta La Hueco on the South face of The Maiden.
Protection
For the first pitch, it's useful to bring a 0.5 cam before the first bolt, then clip the next 6 bolts. After clipping the 6th bolt, you can place a #4 RP nut along with a small cam (black Totem) in a horizontal flake and then a yellow 0.4 cam just before the belay. The second pitch is all bolts except the last move getting to the belay could use a 0.4 yellow cam. The third is all bolts, but since it traverses to the left, it's most efficient to lead and then clip back through the fixed draws to get back down to the belay. You can rappel from the top of the second pitch as long as you clip a few draws on the way down to get back to the belay on the top of the first pitch.
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