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Wrist Twister
C2+
Avg: 3 from 2
votes
Routes in Tantalus Wall
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Cannabis Wall T 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c C2 |
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Great White North, The T 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a |
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Tantalus Wall T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a C0 |
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Cerberus T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Wrist Twister C2+ |
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Milk Road T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c C0 |
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Milk Run T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b A0 |
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Midnight Run T,S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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Yosemite Pinnacle Left Side T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
| Type: | Aid, 410 ft (124 m), 3 pitches, Grade III |
| FA: | Paul Piro & Brian Norris, 1974 |
| Page Views: | 225 total · 14/month |
| Shared By: | Tyler Knowles on Feb 5, 2024 |
| Admins: | Mark Roberts, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra |
Access Issue: SIGNIFICANT ROCK FALL CLOSURES - UPDATED Feb 29th 2024
Details
The closures posted on this Mountain Project page are the latest according to the date mentioned above.
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TRAIL TO THE PROW AND ECHELON WALL VIA THE SHERIFF'S BADGE CLOSURE
Due to a rockfall event on April 17, 2023, the approach/access trail to the Prow and Echelon wall via the Sheriff’s Badge have been impacted. Please stay out of this area until the full extent of this event has been determined.
Posted April 17, 2023
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Due to multiple significant rockfalls in the North Wall, Slhanay, Grand Wall, and Western Dihedrals climbing areas of Stawamus Chief, a large number of climbing routes and bouldering areas are currently closed until further notice. Efforts are underway to assess and remove hazards in the hopes of opening some of these areas soon.
NORTH WALL CLOSURE
The following routes in this area remain closed until further notice due to a large rock fall event. All routes between Lunar Tide and Polaris on the upper Zodiac Wall, as well as all routes between Parallel Universe and Polaris on the Lower Zodiac Wall. The Climb known as Angel’s Crest is open, please be cautions on the approach and avoid the debris field to the left.
Climbing Route Closure Map: nrs.objectstore.gov.bc.ca/k…
GRAND WALL BOULDERS CLOSURE
Due to hazards created by significant rockfall events the following bouldering areas(and associated trails) remain closed until further notice. Lipsmack: Black Sabbath & Halfway Around the world, Octogon: Kemoslabby and Viper: Old and Serious, Beachcomber & Towlie.
Boudlering Closure Map: nrs.objectstore.gov.bc.ca/k…
WESTERN DIHEDRALS CLOSURE
Due to hazards created by significant rockfall events the following climbing routes between Teenage wasteland and Deadend Dihedral remain closed until further notice. Including: The Black Dyke, The Gauntlet, The Façade, Sticky Fingers, Sunset Strip, Millenium Falcon, Rutabaga, Turnip Arrowroot, and Europa.
Climbing Route Closure Map: nrs.objectstore.gov.bc.ca/k…
Updated June 30, 2023
Access Issue: Camping
Details
VAN CAMPING / WILD CAMPING
Within District Boundaries
The District of Squamish PROHIBITS camping within the municipal boundary. This includes sleeping in a vehicle anywhere within District boundaries. A bylaw gives the District the power to issue tickets for contraventions.
Camping on urban / residential streets is prohibited under pre-existing bylaws.
The “hot spots” that have been of most concern are below.
· The whole of the Mamquam Forest Service Road under the North Walls of the Chief between the junction with the 99 and junction with the Stawamus/Indian Arm Forest Service Road (as a salmon run and sensitive riparian area, camping close to the Stawamus River is especially inappropriate)
· The Powerhouse Springs Road including the parking area for the Fern Hill cliff
· The dirt road to the kitesurfing “Spit.”
Outside of District Boundaries
If you explore forest roads in crown land outside the municipal boundaries, it may be possible to find discreet roadside sites suitable for tents or van camping. However, the provincial authorities do have some restrictions ;
· Stays are limited to 14 days.
· Campers should follow Leave No Trace principles. HUMAN WASTE is a major issue.
· Strictly observe any current fire bans.
DESIGNATED CAMPGROUNDS
Please see the District of Squamish website for a comprehensive list of designated campgrounds.
Recommended affordable camping:
- At the Chief: Stawamus Chief Provincial Park Campground BC parks site, spots start at $10.00 CAD/person. No reservations.
- 7 minutes north: Mamquam River Campground A non-profit site, spots start at $15.00cad/night for a drive-in site. Reservations recommended, not required.
- 20 minutes north: Chek Canyon Recreation Site A public site; no fees, no reservations and world class sport-climbing. No running water. The road is steep and rough but 4x4 not required
Description
A classic climb in a stunning position, and likely the shortest aid route in Squamish. Wrist Twister is among the easiest aid routes (that are still aid routes and not free climbs) - it's a good next step after Cannabis Wall (C2, 5p). This route involves equal shares of old/new rivets, questionable fixed heads and fun hooking. Good pro and 3/8" bolts are infrequent enough to keep you on your toes the whole time.
P1 (45m): climb thoughtfully off the deck into a long, left-arching rivet ladder which ends at an intermediate 2-bolt anchor. Continue past this anchor leftwards into a traversing mini roof/flake then head up the face to the anchor. C2
P2 (35m): this pitch heads straight up the wall and is quite sustained. Lots of fixed heads (of varying quality), some rivets, and then fun hooking moves lead you to the anchor. A fall (while safe) might zipper a sizeable portion of the pitch, so try not to. C2+
P3 (45m): a reachy move off the belay takes you into the final brief crack system. A series of continuous rivets and hook moves lead you upwards to the dyke. Do some engaging hook moves along the dyke for a couple of meters then quest directly upwards through bat holes and rivets. C2+
Location
Start on the same platform as the free climbs Cerebus and Call of the Sirens but head vertically up the wall on the features described in P1.
Protection
Cams: DR to 1", offsets very useful
Nuts: 1-2 sets offset nuts
Hooks: doubles including pointed
Rivet hangers: variety
Beaks: 1-2 sets of straights
A single 1.5" and 2" cam can provide a solid ground anchor to make the P1 belay much comfier.
There are two bolt anchors at the top of every pitch.
* A heading and bolting kit (and the knowledge to use them) are recommended as Squamish aid routes aren't repeated regularly and old fixed gear may be missing or need replacing. *
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