Type: Trad, Mixed, Ice, Alpine, 1500 ft (455 m), 12 pitches, Grade III
FA: C. Profit, D. Radigue, S. Tavernier. June 1984
Page Views: 147 total · 10/month
Shared By: Bogdan Petre on Feb 2, 2024
Admins: Bogdan Petre, David Riley, Luc-514

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

When a mountain project user completes this route they should submit a route description. I have not yet climbed this route, but I do have a useful beta photo to add that may help future aspirants (and hopefully myself). 

I've gone into Argentiere on a number of occasions and did not find enough ice to climb this thing, but on a recent tour I thought I saw it in good shape and snapped a photo. I didn't have time to come back and climb it myself but I shared it with someone else who did climb it and reported "the first two pitches + the bergschrund were a challenge: super dry conditions before reaching the ice in the gully". When I asked "was the gully any good" the guy reported "yes it was!". I'm posting this photo as a record of what the route can look like when it's in.

Note, the bergshrund is reportedly often the crux. You can hopefully get a clear photo of the shrund here, which in these conditions was passable.

Location Suggest change

Back of argentiere glacier on Pointe Domino. The most obvious ice line that follows a dihedral to its top and snow/ice to the summit.

Protection Suggest change

2x 60 ropes, couple pins, handful of cams, screws, i.e. typical chamonix alpine mixed rack

Photos

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