Balanced Rock/Turk's Head Ridge Linkup
5.4 YDS 4a French 12 Ewbanks IV UIAA 10 ZA VD 3c British
Avg: 4 from 1 vote
Type: | Trad, Grade II |
FA: | unknown |
Page Views: | 240 total · 23/month |
Shared By: | Paul Jones on Feb 1, 2024 · Updates |
Admins: | Ian Cotter-Brown, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, chris tregge, Ben Strobel, Kyle Harding |
Description
A linkup of Balanced Rock Ridge and Turk's Head Ridge. Start at the train tracks below the Balanced Rock Trail (or, alternatively, park near the cabins below the West Bluff). Skip the trail and go right when the stone steps start. Take the talus field up, moving left after you pass a small grove of pine trees, up to Balanced Rock Wall. I started the technical climbing in the groove left of New Box. Top out, move right to a small chimney behind Balanced Rock, then up.to a blocky face with an airy start directly above Box Canyon. From here, take an airy ridge and discontinuous boulders up and right to top out on the trail, at a nice overlook. Stand on the block and take In a great view of the valley. Run down Balaced Rock trail, cross the tracks and take the asphalt past the beach to the road. Run the road West and hang a right at the dirt road, run past the cabins and get to the base of Turk's Head Ridge. Climb the ridge. NOTE: For the FKT, I climb an easier version of the ridge, climbing left of the 5.8 pitch and climbing a chimney far right, around the corner, from Wiessner Wall. Top out, access the trail, run down, access the road and run back towards the South Shore Beach.. Run back to the train tracks where you started your timer and you are finished! I HIGHLY RECOMMEND USING A ROPE AND PARTNER ON THESE CLIMBS, INITIALLY. I'VE HAD FRIENDS FALL ON SECTIONS. I've only timed it once at 1:24. I was 52 years old and changed into running shoes for the runs. Do it in approach shoes to save time, if you can climb confidently in them. I'd love to see many people break the hour mark! I'd also recommend running this very early or during a weekday/off season, to avoid running over tourists.
1 Comment