The Heckmair route (ED2, V−, A0, 60°)

First ascent: 1938, 20-24 July - Heinrich Harrer, Anderl Heckmair, Fritz Kasparek and Ludwig Vörg.
First one-day ascent: 1950 - Leo Forstenlechner and Erich Wascak (18 hours).
First winter ascent: 1961, 6-12 March - Walter Almberger, Toni Hiebeler, Toni Kinshofer and Anderl Mannhardt.

Mad fun root deep in the las vegas of Switzerland. Id recomend climbing in winter, late fall or early spring to avoid scary rockfall and make the mixed pitches easier with smears and neve. 

Heres a bit of a breakdown:

The first part of the route (about 800 meters) is “easy” and in good conditions, you can get to the Difficult Crack almost free solo.
We started on the right side of First Pillar (about 200 meters) and followed  the easiest line. There are many variations, but all are quite easy (with some short rock sections and ok gear.

After 150 meters (at the Shattered Pillar height) we went to the right and then immediatyl left. Traverse on snow ledges and then youll  be on a snowfield (with an overhanging wall above) and then you go 50 meters to right.
Then you hit the Difficult Crack (Belay pegs, old slings gear).

The difficult crack is a toughy! be prepared for m5 torque with good cams and handjams plentiful. From there bust left to the hinterstoisser. It goes at m7 without the fixed line, delicate d-tooling with shiza flared cams and offset stoppers if you dont clip the fixed lines. Then go straight up to the  first icefield, really fun 30 m ice pitch. Then second ice field is bucnh of rocks and good ice to the death bivy (good ledge 4 person comfy)

From the Death Bivvy, we traversed to the big ramp. There are 4-5 pitches 150m of climbing. Including Ice Chimney (M6 in good conditions, lots of pitons). In the middle of The Ramp is the Spanish Bivvy but it isnt great honestly. 

Above the Ice chimney is one small ass kicker rock pitch with a chockstone crux. After that is easy climbing on snow/ ice. Then you hit Brittle Ledges which is a good bivvy We spent the night here after running out of food and water. Traverse the ledge to start of the Brittle Crack – one m5+ pitch with quite good rock.

In the morning we did the Travers e of the gods to the white spider. Its a  right leaning snow ramp on chill terrain. 

From white spider its pretty gnar to bail,  just keep climbing. The White spider pitches are unreal low angle ice for 200 m. stay center of it. Then you hit the base of The Quartz Crack. Difficult m6+ chimney. Its tough but protects well with small cams and pins.
After that you traverse to the left and climb a small crack to the big pulpit. Here you will find fixed lines which lead you to the Exit Chimneys.

The Exit Chimneys can be pretty hard (but only m5) in weak conditions. Climb them 3-4 pitches 150 m to the easier terrain which leads you to the final snow and ice field. Heres the spot of ueli running up to the ridge in his record movie. 

Ridge is easy and in good conditions you can put the rope away. Its about 100 meters of chilling to the suimmit. 

Take the north ridge down and check out the view of the north face from there, its nuts.  

Celebrate at any of the beer hauses on the way down, we skied and it made for a fun last day of eating, drinking, jumping off stuff as we skied to grindewald. I cant wait to go back and i highly reccomend shelling out for this swiss excursion. 

get to interlaken, train to grindewald, hike from tram 

pins, fixed junk, screws, knots, wires, cams to 3" 

high calorie snacks, dispo camera, a nice light stove and sunscreen!!