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Routes in Lake Mead Buttress
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West Side Story S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Herd Immunity S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Mr. Bones' Wild Ride T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a X |
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Land Before Time S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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La Madre Flu S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Bone Collector T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Lake Mead Buttress Original Route T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R |
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Contagion S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Anti-Vax Crack S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Patient Zero S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Tectonic Tango S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Sleeper S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Mutation S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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Killer Nano Robot Infection S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Super Spreader 35 S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Booster Direct S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Booster Shot S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
| Type: | Sport, 630 ft (191 m), 6 pitches |
| FA: | Sam Boyce and Lani Chapko, Nov 2023 |
| Page Views: | 1,742 total · 111/month |
| Shared By: | Sam Boyce on Jan 20, 2024 |
| Admins: | Luke EF, Justin Johnsen |
Description
Land Before Time delicately weaves a line between “Mr Bones Wild Ride” and “Bone Collector”.
For more information, photos, and topos, see the new guidebook for mulitpitch sport routes in Red Rock NCA and surrounding areas!
https://www.theclimbingguides.com/product-page/red-rock-multi-pitch-sport-climbs
P1 85’ 5.8 Start up the obvious crack. After clipping the third bolt, step right onto the face with an interesting traverse to get you established. Climb the high quality face with some chert to a roof that takes you up to the belay ledge
Move the belay across the talus ledge to an anchor in the chert at the base of an obvious rib on the right side of the mega gully.
P2 110’ 5.8 Start up low angle chert. When the wall steepens, follow the feint rib to a great belay ledge.
P3 120’ 5.7 Step left off the belay ledge then follow a diagonal up and left. Gain another ledge and work back right on great holds to the crest of the rib. Continue up the rib to a ledgy zone where the mega gully ends.
P4 150’ 5.8 Head up and right on easy ledgy terrain. This is the worst rock on the route though the climbing is easy so it is quite manageable. After a bit the wall steepens and becomes more consistent. Follow a seam with great climbing up to a good ledge below an obvious stembox.
P5 60’ 5.7 Climb the stembox. Make some airy moves at the top to gain some lower angle terrain, ramble up to another ledge to belay.
P6 100’ 5.7 Start up low angle terrain to a funky band of strange rock. Make your way up and left into the gully, climb past a roof back into lower angle terrain that leads to an anchor on the summit.
Descent: Walk Off, please do not equip the route for rappel above pitch 3. If you find rappel hardware above pitch 3, consider it booty!
Location
Approach: Park on Kettle Ridge Drive. Pick up the Cleod 9 mt bike trail. Follow this to the junction with the Secret Menu Trail. Turn right on secret menu, follow this trail until you reach a feint cairned climbers path bellow the buttress. This takes you to the base of contagion. LBT starts to the left of the ridge crest by an obvious gully.
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