Walking on Sunshine
5.10b YDS 6a+ French 19 Ewbanks VII- UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British
Type: | Trad, 275 ft (83 m), 3 pitches, Grade II |
FA: | unknown |
Page Views: | 803 total · 50/month |
Shared By: | Ida B Bolton on Jan 14, 2024 |
Admins: | Luke EF, Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen |
HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).
Description
This route weaves its way up between a lot of familiar terrain on the Lower SS Tier with some high quality 5.10 climbing. Pitch 1 is a fun warm-up with some cool and varied climbing. Pitch 2 is a steep headwall with small-ish, one-pad crimps reminiscent of the face climbing on the Black Velvet or Dark Shadows Wall. Pitch 3 has some wonderful traditional climbing with some crafty placements and an exciting & exposed finish. This route links up nicely with any of the harder routes on the Upper Tier, or in addition to Beulah’s Book.
P1: 5.8, 35 meters. Start as for Beulah’s Book. Climb up the corner & step around the chockstone. Go up the small corner right of the chimney. Climb around the roof & continue up the corner out right. Pass an anchor out left, and finally trend up & right to an anchor at the base of a steep headwall.
P2: 5.10, 20 meters. Straight up the headwall over a bulge to an anchor on a great ledge. A short pitch.
P3: 5.10-, 30 meters. Climb double cracks + face straight above the belay, trending up and right to the left arcing crack. Follow this crack back left to a cruxy move up to & across the roof. Pull through the roof & belay above at an anchor. The second half of this pitch is the left variation of Sandstone Overcast.
Rappel from here with one 70m rope in 3 raps. Watch rope ends on the last rappel (P1). Or…
…continue up the last pitch of Beulah’s Book to the terrace. If continuing on, a more spacious belay can be built 25’ above the rap anchor either in a dark scoop or 20’ higher on a sloping slab with horizontal slung plates and a small cam. You won’t be able to see your partner if you do this.
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