Type: Trad, 275 ft (83 m), 3 pitches, Grade II
FA: unknown
Page Views: 803 total · 50/month
Shared By: Ida B Bolton on Jan 14, 2024
Admins: Luke EF, Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

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Warning Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

This route weaves its way up between a lot of familiar terrain on the Lower SS Tier with some high quality 5.10 climbing. Pitch 1 is a fun warm-up with some cool and varied climbing. Pitch 2 is a steep headwall with small-ish, one-pad crimps reminiscent of the face climbing on the Black Velvet or Dark Shadows Wall. Pitch 3 has some wonderful traditional climbing with some crafty placements and an exciting & exposed finish. This route links up nicely with any of the harder routes on the Upper Tier, or in addition to Beulah’s Book.

P1: 5.8, 35 meters. Start as for Beulah’s Book. Climb up the corner & step around the chockstone. Go up the small corner right of the chimney. Climb around the roof & continue up the corner out right. Pass an anchor out left, and finally trend up & right to an anchor at the base of a steep headwall.

P2: 5.10, 20 meters. Straight up the headwall over a bulge to an anchor on a great ledge. A short pitch.

P3: 5.10-, 30 meters. Climb double cracks + face straight above the belay, trending up and right to the left arcing crack. Follow this crack back left to a cruxy move up to & across the roof. Pull through the roof & belay above at an anchor. The second half of this pitch is the left variation of Sandstone Overcast.

Rappel from here with one 70m rope in 3 raps. Watch rope ends on the last rappel (P1). Or…

…continue up the last pitch of Beulah’s Book to the terrace. If continuing on, a more spacious belay can be built 25’ above the rap anchor either in a dark scoop or 20’ higher on a sloping slab with horizontal slung plates and a small cam. You won’t be able to see your partner if you do this.

Location Suggest change

Shared start with Beulah's Book.

Protection Suggest change

Small cams to #2 BD Camalot + nuts.

1x 70m rope

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