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Ussen
5.10b/c YDS 6b French 20 Ewbanks VII UIAA 20 ZA E2 5b British
Avg: 3.2 from 22
votes
Routes in Hall of Legends, Mid-Leap
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Goyahkla S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Greatest Sin. S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Net Positive Impact S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Dahteste S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Mangas S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Coloradas S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Standing in front of the enemy S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Juh S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Victorio S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Apache Wolf S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Gouyen S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Lozen S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Naiche S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Naiche's Escape S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Mischief Maker S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Child of Water S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a |
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Slayer of Monsters S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Sons of Ussen S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Ussen S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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White Hactcin S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Black Hactcin S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Gaan S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Magazu S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Do'a S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Lipan S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Yavapai S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Coyotero S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Chiracahua S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Mescalero S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Mezcal S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Knotty Girl S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Knotty Tower S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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ForSten S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Jicarilla S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Cochinay S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Red Ant S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a |
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Wapotehe S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Gaage S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Mai S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Ba'cho S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Scorpion and the Frog, The S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Ni'tse S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
| Type: | Sport, 600 ft (182 m), 6 pitches |
| FA: | Charlie Brown, David Gunn 2023 |
| Page Views: | 602 total · 37/month |
| Shared By: | Ian Gunn on Jan 9, 2024 · Updates |
| Admins: | Zach Levy, Sierra Blair, Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen |
Access Issue: Must Register! Private Property-The Pond, Atlantis and Mine Area
Details
This is a one-time and free process so once you are registered you are good to go.
You can read more about this process and the announcement at the Queen Creek Coalition website – theqcc.com or the Queen Creek Coalition’s Facebook page – facebook.com/Queen-Creek-Co…
Description
Bring your rope skillz!
The Apache people believe in a Creator called Ussen. They use their voices and drums to call to the Creator for help and guidance.
Ussen is a prominent edge of the "hand" that forms the hall of legends. Pitch 5 is the key terrain feature that defines this line- a pitch of incredible stemming inside a near-perfect dihedral.
Bring a 70 and 18 draws!
Pitch 1: 5.9 35m
Climb a broken face in the back of a gully to the left of Black Hactsin. The first bolt is fairly high, but on easy terrain. Ascend blocks, and eventually cracks, and begin to trend climbers left to a ledge. Clip a bolt and head out to the left of the face and gradually transition into liebacks that get easier as you go. 2 bolt anchor a the back of a nice ledge. This is where there's an interesting belay change: climb DOWN and climbers left, to another set of anchors far left.
Pitch 2: 5.8 25m
Follow bolts up slightly chossy rock to a tough move and a hidden bolt. From here, the rock improves in quality, gets steeper, and more fun.
Pitch 3 5.10a 25m
Climb up easy terrain to a roof. Pull this roof and climb the striking headwall on pockets. this can be linked with P2 for one awesome turbomegapitch.
Pitch 4 5.8 30m
This pitch is on the face ACROSS the gap. Have the leader clip the bolts above the anchor and then LOWER into the gap. Balance and tip-toe your way across the boulder and then start up the face. Back clean a bolt to prevent some nasty rope drag. Follow the bolts up a blocky face and across a few cracks to a ledge. The follower will have to tie in short on a bight, then lower themselves across the gap with a belay device. (wild!) There may be a moment when you find yourself airborne. Once the follower is across the gap, pull your rope out of the lowering bolt and climb up to your partner. !WARNING! It is hard to bail after this pitch!
Pitch 5 5.7 30m
Climb up to the first bolt and around the left arete of the tower onto the east face. Head up the ULTRA classic dihedral to a nice belay ledge. This pitch alone warrants the hike/drive/flight whatever!
Pitch 6 5.10 b/c 20m
This pitch is a bit height-dependent. Think long and tall thoughts!
Big feet and small hands lead up and left to an easy but dramatic and airy mantle move. Easy and steep moves from the mantle to the anchor.
DESCENT INFO:
Rap the east face straight below the last anchor down to a large ledge. From here rap down Child of Water 5.11c. , It's the farthest left anchor on the ledge . This can be done with a 70, but it is CLOSE! Tie knots!. Use the mid way anchor if unsure or your rope is shorter than 70. Walk down the gulley, and to your packs.
Photos
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