Cadena Nebular
5.11 YDS 6c+ French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 23 ZA E4 5c British
Type: | Sport, 1000 ft (303 m), 8 pitches |
FA: | unknown |
Page Views: | 192 total · 12/month |
Shared By: | Colin on Dec 29, 2023 |
Admins: | Ricardo Orozco, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra |
The actual suspension of climbing on Peña de Bernal:
- All routes on the South face are closed.
- The via feratta is closed for ascent or descent, including the rappel.
- The summit is closed by any route, including those from Chichid'ho side.
- You may climb the North side and routes on Campamento Chichid’ho side (although you may not summit).
- This will make climbing Filo Noroccidental impossible since it would be very difficult and dangerous to rappel the route.
Description
Great Route. Super solid rock down low gives way to harder climbing on some mostly good but somewhat fragile rock up high. P6 is a wild, sustained, and very cool pitch, even if it has a bit of fragile rock. If you don't climb 5.11 I'd recommend the first 3 pitches as a smaller route. The 5.10 roof pitch is very cool. The first 3 pitches can def be rap'd with an 80m, maybe with a 70m too? Tie knots in your rope!
P1: cruise up highly featured low angle terrain on solid rock. 5.8ish
P2: cruise up highly featured low angle terrain on solid rock. 5.8ish
P3: really cool 5.10 roof surrounded by easier climbing. 5.10-
P4: cruise up some easy terrain, then start to trend right in a big corner system. Rock gets a bit worse here. 5.7ish
P5: continue trending right in the corner system. a bit dirty and loose. 5.7ish
P6: THE PITCH. hard boulder problem at the first bolt after the anchor, followed by sustained, slightly overhanging 5.10+/5.11 climbing. Maybe it's the exposure, but this pitch felt hard for 5.11. The rock gets crispier the higher you go. Be careful grabbing/stepping on thin flakes. Also some healthy space between bolts.
P7: Easier climbing to the ridge, joining up in the middle of Filo's second to last pitch. Finish at the good ledge before Filo's last pitch. 5.10ish?
P8: The last pitch of Filo to the summit. 5.10-
Descent: Rappel either Chasing the Moon or the via ferrata
2 Comments