Shake, Rattle, and Roll
5.8 YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British PG13
Avg: 1 from 1 vote
Type: | Trad, 500 ft (152 m), 3 pitches |
FA: | Tom and Rick |
Page Views: | 151 total · 13/month |
Shared By: | Thomas Gilmore on Dec 27, 2023 |
Admins: | Luke EF, Larry DeAngelo, Aaron Mc, Justin Johnsen |
HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).
Description
This is less of a spray to climb this route but more of a cautionary tale to avoid the rockfall debris from the May 2021 event. We found the objective danger to be manageable but I figured I would make this entry as a word of caution.
From the pitch 5 anchor of Solar Flare, climb another 60 feet to yet another bolted anchor with tat on a big flat ledge. Look straight ahead and up and there is an attractive looking corner. At one time this was probably decent climbing but now it is covered in rockfall debris.
P1 5.5: Climb to above mentioned corner and build an anchor right when the corner starts to get good (hand crack). Look up to see some death blocks peering down from the the top of the dihedral.
P2 5.8 PG13: Instead of climbing the attractive corner, traverse straight right out onto the face towards the big scrub oak. Climb crispy slab with no pro until the difficulty eases way off. Climb past a second scrub oak and you will start to see the Going Nuts and Solar Slab area. Peak over to the top of the attractive corner to confirm that death would have been likely if you climbed to the top of that thing and pulled on the wrong block. Stop at a nice flat stance at the base of a finger crack and build a belay. (alternatively, instead of climbing the following described pitch, you can keep traversing to the top of going nuts; I did this many years ago and I remember it being hell. Not recommended at all)
P3 5.8: This pitch is actually pretty good climbing. Climb up the finger crack (crux) and pull over into easier terrain. Follow the wide crack (no wide gear or wide technique required) until you reach a large flat ledge. You are now back on Sunspot Ridge. Why didn't you just climb Sunspot ridge instead?
If the rockfall debris ever cleaned up, this would be an adventurous, ok variation but why with Sunspot right next to it?
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