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Routes in Slate Nation
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Achy Brachiator S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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American Flyer S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Anchor Babies S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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At Last S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Atmospheric Slate S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Beautiful Noise S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Bombay Saphire S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Clean Slate S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Dancing With The Scars S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Destroyer, The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Dragon Slater S 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c |
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Evolver S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Face of Spades S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Field of Dreams S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Finger Monkey S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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First Bolt Blues S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Foot Loose S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Golden Years S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Groovy Infection S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Head Cleaner S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Hipster Dufus S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Infectious Groove S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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K9 Karma S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Lost Nation S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Mini _ _arket S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Orange Twist S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Origins S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Player's Club S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Razor Stubble S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Redneck Riviera S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Reflections of Taunt S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Right Stuff, The S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Sacrificial Fox S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Short and Sweet S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Slagfest S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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Slate Nation Blues S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Sleet Happens S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Smooth As Slate S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Steppin Razor S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Strive Dreams S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Surfing the Slate Nation S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Tidy Cat S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Wild Turkey S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Wire and Fire S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
| Type: | Sport, 30 ft (9 m) |
| FA: | Equipped by R. Miller & J. Turner, Spring 2023; FA by JT, December 2023 |
| Page Views: | 108 total · 10/month |
| Shared By: | JA T on Dec 26, 2023 |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen |
Access Issue: - Portions of the approach and cliffs of this area are on private land.
Description
Route starts with a 9-10 move intro boulder problem (V3 maybe) to a good hueco hole on the headwall. From there you head into the main crux of the route which consists of very thin handholds and a high step to a right hand pocket to establish yourself underneath a shallow flake. From there you delicately move up the vertical face on small holds and feet, utilizing thumb presses, crimps, sidepulls, and pinches. Route trends slightly left toward the black streak. This is a short route but it packs a punch.
Useful Tips: It's tempting to belay from one tier below so that the belayer can see the climber, but this requires skipping bolt #1. Not clipping bolt #1 puts the rope in a position where it can/will snag the climber's left leg in the event of a fall in the crux (going from bolt 3-4). I recommend that the belayer stand below bolt #1, which will keep the rope out of the way of the climber should they fall in the crux. Stick clipping bolts 1 & 2 is recommended. Also, with this route being so thin, I found that the ideal conditions were shade and 50-55 degrees.
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