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Salami Wand Kenobi
5.11- YDS 6c French 22 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 22 ZA E3 5c British C2 R
Avg: 4 from 4
votes
Routes in Aeolian Wall
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Aeolian Wall (Original Route) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A2 |
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Cactus Connection T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Cactus Joe's Connection T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Dream of Wild Cheeseburgers T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Evolution Arete T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b C1 |
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Gift of the Wind Gods T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Inti Watana T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Jedi Mind Tricks T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A2 |
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Lady Wilson's Bush T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R |
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Original Sin, The T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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Pagan Sacrifice T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Resolution Arete T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A1 |
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Salami Wand Kenobi T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c C2 R |
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Taco Tuesday T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b C1 |
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Thanatos T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b X |
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Wicked, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Woman of Mountain Dreams T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
| Type: | Trad, Aid, 2000 ft (606 m), 14 pitches, Grade V |
| FA: | Sam Boyce, Danny Urioste, Kyle Willis Dec 2023 |
| Page Views: | 513 total · 39/month |
| Shared By: | Sam Boyce on Dec 14, 2023 |
| Admins: | Luke EF, Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen |
Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet.
Details
HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).
Description
This route climbs an impressive, and direct line straight up the tallest part of the center of the Aeolian Wall. The route is mostly independent, sharing only two pitches with Woman of Mountain Dreams.
The route follows mostly large features, involving a fair amount of classic and burly chimney and OW climbing. There is one aid pitch up the impressive 120’ roof in the middle of the route. This roof seemed like it would clock in around 5.14 if it’s possible at all to free. The climbing is mostly well protected on solid rock, with only occasional choss and a couple necky runouts.
“Salami” starts in an obvious squeeze chimney about 100’ below the start of WOMD, you pass by this first pitch on the standard WOMD approach, just before the final low fifth class ramp.
P1 200’ 5.9+ Climb a squeeze chimney tunnel for about 150’ before you are able to exit again below a tricky Bombay roof. Continue past precarious blocks to a big ledge.
Move the belay 180’ to the left up talus to a ledge in a notch on the ridge.
P2 200’ 5.10-R There are 3 obvious cracks above. Climb the central butt crack all the way to the top of Aeolian Tower.
P3 130’ 5.11a Climb the crux slab pitch of Woman of mountain Dreams.
P4 160’ 5.10a Climb the second slab of WOMD.
P5 80’ 5.0 Climb the scramble pitch of WOMD to the big bushy ledge.
P6 160’ 5.7 From the Bushy ledge, head up and right to a low angle chimney. Take that to an obvious ledge.
P7 130’ 5.10- Climb the nice right facing OW corner to another good ledge.
P8 100’ 5.7 Continue up the main wide crack past some choss to the “Womb with a View”, a sick alcove below the enormous roof.
P9 120’ 5.9 C2awk Climb the epic roof via awkward but splitter aid to a very tight squeeze at the lip. A short bit of easy chimney above leads to a semi hanging belay at a horizontal. Belay takes size 3 through 6 cams.
P10 180’ 5.9 Continue up the wide crack to a ledge, step left onto the main wall past a short face to gain a groove with a poor stance.
P11 70’ 5.10 Climb left past some improbable rock to a good ledge below an OW and hand crack.
P12 100’ 5.8 Climb the hand crack to a groove, continue up ledges up and right to the top of a small tower to belay.
P13 180’ 5.10R Start with a slabby runout off the tower to gain a crack. Follow the epic finger crack to a wide sloping ledge.
P14 200’ 5.9+ climb straight up through a minor roof with decent hard to see gear. Follow overlaps and corners to the summit!
Descent: Take your preferred descent off Wilson, I find the fastest way to be Oak Creek.
Location
The route starts a couple hundred feet down and left from WOMD, taking a direct line up the center of Aeolian Tower. Approach via the standard White Rot Gully Approach, continue up the main gully when you get to the Inti Watana turn off. Head up this gully until you round a notch on a ridge, once past this notch, continue a couple hundred feet across the big ledge to the base of an obvious squeeze chimney. This is just before the final low fifth class approach ramp for WOMD.
Photos
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