Grey Nomads
5.10- YDS 6a French 18 Ewbanks VI+ UIAA 18 ZA E1 5a British
Type: | Sport, 350 ft (106 m), 5 pitches |
FA: | Supe Lillywhite and Kalehua Lillywhite |
Page Views: | 541 total · 31/month |
Shared By: | Jerel Lillywhite on Dec 3, 2023 · Updates |
Admins: | Fallon Rowe, Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane |
Description
Pitch 1 - 5.8 or 5.9? 11 bolts to chain anchor. Wanders around a bit. Options of going left or right through the crux.
Pitch 2 - 5.6 or 5.7. 7 bolts to chain anchor. Traverses gently left. Fun edges.
Pitch 3 - 5.7. 5 bolts to chain anchors. Worst pitch of the route but ends at a great belay ledge.
Pitch 4 - 5.10b? Mostly 5.8 or 5.9 climbing. 11 bolts to chain anchors. One awkward move on the roof (that can be aided through if you need to). Best pitch of the route.
Pitch 5 - 5.6 or 5.7. 7 bolts to chain anchors. Get's you most of the way to the top.
Hiking off - State Park officials don't want anchors at the top of the wall so the local rednecks can't hike to the top and then rappel back down, so this ends about ten feet from the top. But, you can easily climb to the top if you want and do a somewhat sketchy down climb to get onto the Island in the Sky hiking/scrambling route. If you've never done the scramble before, don't go for this option. It's very easy to get lost up there.
Rapping back down - The route raps fine. You're most likely to get your rope stuck rappelling pitch 5 but it's quite avoidable.
New Route! Climb with caution - This is a brand new Snow Canyon climb, which means there is going to be A LOT of stuff still breaking off of it. I cleaned a ton off, but there is still plenty of small edges that will likely break, and plenty of moss that will get scraped off over time. Wandering very far to the left or right of the bolt line will send you into uncleaned territory, especially on pitches 4 and 5.
Historical note - Matt Kindred and Ron Olevsky both had climbs up on this part of the wall some point or another. But supposedly their bolts were removed in the wild days of Snow Canyon climbing. I didn't see any evidence of past climbs, but maybe there is still an odd piton or something up here somewhere? Keep your eyes open!
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