Type: Trad, 120 ft (36 m)
FA: Tom Souders, Dave Veldhaus, Jeff Brumfield 1986
Page Views: 176 total · 17/month
Shared By: Noah Havlik on Dec 1, 2023 · Updates
Admins: Shirtless Mike, DrRockso RRG, Luke Cornejo, Billy Simek

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Warning Access Issue: New route development is prohibited in the Daniel Boone National Forest. DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

This gorgeous but rarely climbed line tackles the Long Wall at its highest point, looming overhead as you approach the crag. The route begins in the huge dihedral barricaded by poison Ivy and grapevine directly in front of you at the end of the approach trail. There is an overhanging handcraft visible on the second pitch above. Suffer through the poison ivy down low to climb the original first pitch through a chimney (5.7), crawl across a ledge and belay. 

Cruise master direct variation: 

Take a direct start up the arete and face right of the poison ivy patch and link directly into the overhanging hand crack of pitch 2 to reduce the suffering but add some risk (5.10- R Dan Beck, 2013)

Cruise masters second pitch ascends the hand crack to an exposed hanging belay at nasty looking bolted anchors. From the hanging belay, move out to the exposed face to clip a bolt, then move up through small pockets, one of which will take a small cam for pro. Pull a Boulder problem to reach a good ledge. Fiddle in a nut if you can, then pull up into a shallow dihedral and cram in more small gear. Continue up the beautifully exposed crack to the top. Rap from a tree to descend

Location Suggest change

Approach meets the trail

Protection Suggest change

Tree, old bolts

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