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Routes in Long Wall
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Approach, The T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b R |
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Are the Pies Fresh? S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Are The Pies Fresh? (to 1st set of anchors) S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Autumn T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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B3 T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 |
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Back Door to Paris S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Big Country T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13 |
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Block and Tackle T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Bloodline T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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Boom! Boom! Out Go the Lights S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Catharsis Wall T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Chinese Checkers V2 5+ |
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Cruise Control T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Cruisemaster T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Denial S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Fear and Loathing in Nada T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Fire and Finesse S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Game Boy S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Gettin Dirty and Bleedin T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Gift, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Gladuator S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Green Hornet V0 4 |
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Hidden Treasure T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Hot September T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Kazi and Mito S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Long Wall Chimney T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Magic School Bus V1 5 |
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Mailbox T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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NEPA This T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
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Next Day Air T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Now I'm Nothing T,TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a V3-4 6A+ X |
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Oxytocin T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Perforator T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Rainy Day Grunt V0- 4- |
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Ralph & Bob's T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Rock Caddie S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Rock Wars T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Route Less Traveled T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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Rubus Fruticosus T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Sacred Geometry T 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c PG13 |
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Samson Face T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Scrabble V0 4 |
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Snatch, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Souders Crack T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R |
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Spaceman Spiff V0+ 4+ |
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Stand and Deliver S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Suction Lipectomy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Sugar daddy T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Sunset T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Texas Tea T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Thunderdome V1 5 |
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Treasures in Heaven T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Trinket Man S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Two Step T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Unlikely Heroes V1 5 |
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Vector Trouble T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Wellspring T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Whip It Out S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Wooden Nickel V2 5+ |
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Yuk T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
| Unsorted Routes: | |
| Type: | Trad, 120 ft (36 m) |
| FA: | Tom Souders, Dave Veldhaus, Jeff Brumfield 1986 |
| Page Views: | 177 total · 15/month |
| Shared By: | Noah Havlik on Dec 1, 2023 · Updates |
| Admins: | Shirtless Mike, DrRockso RRG, Luke Cornejo, Billy Simek |
Access Issue: New route development is prohibited in the Daniel Boone National Forest.
Details
Follow existing trails and climb using removable protection or in climbing areas with existing approved fixed anchors or bolts. Development of any new rock climbing, bouldering or rappelling areas and development of any climbing routes involving the permanent installation of new fixed anchors or new trail construction requires prior Forest Service authorization.
Description
This gorgeous but rarely climbed line tackles the Long Wall at its highest point, looming overhead as you approach the crag. The route begins in the huge dihedral barricaded by poison Ivy and grapevine directly in front of you at the end of the approach trail. There is an overhanging handcraft visible on the second pitch above. Suffer through the poison ivy down low to climb the original first pitch through a chimney (5.7), crawl across a ledge and belay.
Cruise master direct variation:
Take a direct start up the arete and face right of the poison ivy patch and link directly into the overhanging hand crack of pitch 2 to reduce the suffering but add some risk (5.10- R Dan Beck, 2013)
Cruise masters second pitch ascends the hand crack to an exposed hanging belay at nasty looking bolted anchors. From the hanging belay, move out to the exposed face to clip a bolt, then move up through small pockets, one of which will take a small cam for pro. Pull a Boulder problem to reach a good ledge. Fiddle in a nut if you can, then pull up into a shallow dihedral and cram in more small gear. Continue up the beautifully exposed crack to the top. Rap from a tree to descend
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