Type: Boulder, 30 ft (9 m)
FA: e.buzzell
Page Views: 218 total · 15/month
Shared By: Eli B on Nov 30, 2023 · Updates
Admins: Joe M, Jay Knower, M Sprague, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall

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Description Suggest change

A nice long traverse across a crack with a burly transition to a technical top out, this one climbs a little more like a 5.12 trad route rather than a boulder problem. 

Start matched as far back in the horizontal crack as possible, over by the problem "Dab Police". Do some campusing, foot-first shuffling, or a mixture of both to find yourself turning the corner into a series of jams, some more finicky than others. Use them to turn the corner and pull on to the vertical face above, where a couple long technical reaches will take you to an intimidating but relatively chill mantle. Step across the slab and into the massive offwidth above Parting Glass, and climb that to the top of the boulder. 

V6 might be a bit of a sand bag, but these kinds of things are hard to grade. Let me know what y'all think. This one really ought to get climbed. 

Location Suggest change

On the wall of boulders opposite of PPE. If you're standing at PPE, just turn around and walk at the wall of boulders looking for the problem described above. 

 Uphill from classics like Baron, and Dead Roses. in the cave thing that you can use to access Wild Trout Anonymous. 

Protection Suggest change

Despite it's length, much of the hard climbing is close to the ground, and one really only needs to protect the vertical transition. It would be unlikely to fall off of anything after the mantle, and everything before it is secure and low to the ground. 

2-3 pads and a spotter can be sufficient for this one.

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