Lowe Route

The Lowe Route is the classic early season ice route on the North Face of Sphinx Mountain, and the easiest route on the face if the first pitch WI5 pillar is bypassed. It is the only route on the face that forms reliably every year, though the first pitch can be elusive. The first ascent climbed the entire face involving many additional lower pitches, known as the Lowe Direct. Unfortunately the Direct does not often form. Instead, the Lowe is most commonly climbed from the standard North Face traverse approach. The difficulty can be WI5 if the pillar is in, M5 in lean conditions, or, If the first pitch is bypassed and the ice is generous, WI3. 

Pitch One (WI5 or WI2) - A bold vertical pillar sometimes forms and would provide a pumpy start to the day. Alternatively, the pillar can be bypassed via a snow/ice ramp on climber's right that sometimes has some crumbly kitty litter rock. Continue above the pillar for a short nugget of WI2 into the annals of the Lowe. Build a sheltered belay beneath the hopefully fat and gorgeous second pitch above.

Pitch Two**** (WI3-4, 60M) - The reason you came all this way! In fat conditions this pitch purportedly forms as WI3. In early November 2023 it was about WI3+ or WI4-. In mixed conditions it should be around M5. When we climbed it, a short vertical step (crux) relented to more rolling, yet technical, terrain involving a little mixed step between ice and rock and subsequent WI3+ climbing on climber's right in a corner. I could imagine this would be a straightforward ice line in fatter conditions. Build a belay at the last available piece of ice before a long snow slog, or on the rock above with pitons and nuts. 

Pitch Three and Four** (WI2) - Approximately three or four bulges of WI2 up an otherwise steep snow gully lead to the upper bowl of the North Face. Confident parties will pack the rope. We simul-climbed but would ditch the cord next time. If you pitched it out, it would be two pitches with an ice anchor between.

Descent - Continue to the summit climber's left, or descend directly into the large bowl draining skier's right. About 3/4 of the way down this bowl, a trail will branch off skier's right towards the ridge of initial ascent and Helmet saddle. There should be nothing harder than third-class, and intuition should suffice. When in doubt, cut skier's right.

A detailed trip report of our climb is available here: https://tenthousandtoofar.com/2023/11/13/chasing-the-frozen-dragon-lowe-route-wi4-ii-sphinx-mountain-mt-11-10-23/

From the Sphinx/Helmet saddle (see area page), ascend about 500 feet of the ridge directly above the saddle until an "obvious break in the cliff" allows a steep traverse climber's left to the North Face. The Lowe Direct is accessed via a lower traverse. Avalanche danger can be a problem in the many gullies between you and the ice. The Sphinx is generally considered an early season venue for this reason, and because the ice generally deteriorates as winter peaks. In two trips I'm not sure I've perfected the approach, but line of sight tactics have worked both times. The ice should be visible fairly quickly after rounding the corner towards the North Face.