The Nightman Cometh
5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British
Type: | Sport, 200 ft (61 m), 3 pitches |
FA: | Marco Conci, Gavin Emmons 8/19/23 |
Page Views: | 820 total · 46/month |
Shared By: | Marco Conci on Nov 14, 2023 · Updates |
Admins: | andy patterson, Aron Quiter, Bruce Hildenbrand, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
Current Raptor Advisories for Pinnacles National Park nps.gov/pinn/planyourvisit/…
and
pinnacles.org/climbing_info…
Closures effective as of the day after Martin Luther King Day- July 3. Check closure website for details on closed areas.
SPECIAL NOTICE: Condors have been establishing nests at the Pinnacles National Monument. Since condors develop to fledgling more slowly than raptors and vultures closures due to condor nesting is extended past the usual Martin Luther King Day to July 3rd. Again, please check the "Current Raptor Advisory" section of the NPS website and/or the Friends of Pinnacles website for current closures.
As of July 2024 there are three active Condor nests at Pinnacles National Park.
The Machete Ridge area is closed from Pigeon Crack on west face then west around the south side to The Hideout including the popular Old Original.
All climbing routes at Crowley Towers are closed.
All routes on the Yaks and Yaks Wall plus Marauder.
Description
P1: 5.4 60 ft, Start up the crack and work right into the groove or head straight for the groove. Clip a bolt then 4 pins in the seam on the left before stemming up to the anchor.
P2: 5.9 110 ft, Stem up to the first bolt on the left, then look to the right wall where the second bolt is. Pull onto the right wall and follow the bolt line up the seam in a corner. Eventually the corner/seam disappears and you head up and left to the anchors. ~14 bolts. Careful not to follow the four bolts going straight up the left chimney, that is Drawn and Cornered.
P3: 5.6 40ft, Move directly left on big holds, this is a fun exposed move. Once at a good stance clip a bolt and head directly up and slightly right to another bolt. Head left and join the Flying None's 2nd pitch.
Some notes:
The first pitch grade will vary depending on how long you stick in the crack.
You can easily link P3 to the top of Costanoan P3, with appropriate rope drag management.
You can rappel using a 60m by following Flying None until the P1 anchor, then rappelling to the P1 anchor of The Nightman Cometh.
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