Bips and Ahoy!
5.10 YDS 6b French 20 Ewbanks VII- UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British
Type: | Trad, TR, 30 ft (9 m) |
FA: | Peyton Cox and Kelsie Kruckenburg |
Page Views: | 185 total · 12/month |
Shared By: | Peyton Cox on Nov 14, 2023 |
Admins: | Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen |
Description
Easy climbing on the down low leads to a roof that brings the spice. Everyone knows its not the length but what you do with it, but the funn-ness of the roof leaves you at the top wanting more. Worth the amount of lichen if you brought the rack out though.
The left line "Bips" is certainly the main attraction. Thin fingers, mantles, and alpine knee-hooks bring you up to a good belay position. Sits around 5.10a
The right line "Ahoy" can either be reached with a top rope or climbed as its own trad lead. An ok piece or two can be placed under the roof, get creative and it should go. 5.10c/d
A third secret bonus line "Stars Hollow" 5.7 is accessibly with the top rope. Go wild.
A TR can be rigged by walking around top, set with stoppers and gear under 1.5.
!!NOTE!!!! Right where you want to build your anchor, there is a vertical crack between the wall and big block. This block seems to be semi lose. I tried to kick it down or mitigate the risk somehow, but there it lies. It shouldn't come off randomly and make your belayer a foot or two shorter, however I would not use the crack to build your anchor.
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