Varied climbing across two sections. Route is climbable but could use cleaning. Lower, chimney section starts up a left-facing dihedral to a ledge, then chimney up the left side, avoiding the big, loose block (now cleaned) to gain the ledge. Establishing on the headwall directly above the chimney is likely the crux (tougher if you're shorter), though starting from the base of Bongo Fury is easier. The rest of the headwall goes at a lower difficulty.
Start is about 30 feet below and to the right of the start of Sloppy Seconds. Vegetation makes the start easiest to reach via rappel.
The chimney can take pro, and bolts have appeared on a right variation finish of the headwall, along with 2-bolt anchor.
Roger Taylor
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[Hide Comment] I finally found this -- in Hubbard's Mission Gorge pdf. He called it Chimney Sweep, gave it 5.10 (at the start up the headwall) and a gear lead.
Jan 14, 2024
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chris hubbard
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[Hide Comment] First ascent by Chris Hubbard and Brian Spiewak. 2010. This Summer I went back and put three bolts to a new anchor on the upper headwall and I cleaned the big detached death flake out of the chimney which is protected with gear. I would give this three stars as a lead the way it is now. 10a as an on sight. 5.9 when you know where the holds are.
Oct 5, 2024
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