Continue with onX Maps
Sign in with Facebook
Drench Warfare
5.7 YDS 5a French 15 Ewbanks V+ UIAA 13 ZA MVS 4b British R
Avg: 2.7 from 3
votes
Routes in Big Sleep
|
|
Afternoon Nap T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
|
|
Drench Warfare T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
|
|
Gumby's Adventure on the Crystal Highway T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
|
|
Insomnia S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
|
|
Moonlight Madness S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
|
|
Mustache Brigade T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
|
|
Young Guns T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
| Type: | Trad, 1000 ft (303 m), 6 pitches |
| FA: | Josh Mucci, Sean Neville, John & Sue Godar 9/2010 |
| Page Views: | 199 total · 15/month |
| Shared By: | Sean Neville on Nov 8, 2023 |
| Admins: | Cory B, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
Description
This climb is more runout on easy terrain and more adventurous than "Afternoon nap" but a fun romp. The name is due to leading the first pitch in pouring rain on a dome that funnels all the water!
Pitch 1: 5.5, 150 feet, gear belay. Climb obvious right trending wide roof/crack climbing the easy face below and using crack for protection (4" cam can be used). At the end of the crack there is a bolted belay out right. Do not belay here! This is for "Young Guns" (5.4). Climb out of the roof/crack and belay at a stance with small gear (red and yellow alien) at the base of left trending arch.
Pitch 2: 5.7, 180 feet, 1 bolt, 2 bolt anchor. Climb the left trending arching crack placing small gear until the end of the arch (#1 camalot). Move left and step over roof at weakness and climb easy slab 50 feet for bolt. Climb runout face up to and through crystal/diorite horizontal band and belay at 2 bolts anchor
Pitch 3: 5.7, 190 feet, 2 bolts, 2 bolt anchor. 60m might not make it. Bolts added after first ascent. Climb straight up out of the belay on easy slab linking holes and scoops (some trick gear if you find it). Clip the bolt and climb straight up just left of water streak to located the second bolt. From the second bolt trend slightly right and belay in hole at 2 bolts anchor.
Pitch 4: 5.5, 170 feet, gear, gear belay (green camalot, red alien, #2 camalot). Climb right out of the belay and cross through black diorite circle and head towards the bottom of the crack. No gear at the bottom but it opens up to fingers and hands. Climb this crack to the top where it pitches down and a gear belay can be made on finger size pieces.
Pitch 5: 5.7, 190 feet, 2 bolts, gear belay on knobs. Climb out of the crack towards a steeper headwall with two bolts (well protected). Once past the bolts climb amazing Big Sleep knobs (slings and gear) and move slightly right and belay on knobs.
Pitch 6: 5.5, 175 feet, gear and gear belay. Climb low angle slab to the top of the dome and belay on gear. Walk off to climbers left and down the left side of dome (about 20 mins)
0 Comments