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Unknow Left-facing Corner to Top
5.11a YDS 6c French 22 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 22 ZA E3 5c British PG13
Avg: 3 from 1
vote
Routes in Mikey's Island
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Annie's Knotty Fingers T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Care Giver, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Distriminator, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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East Face T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c C0 PG13 |
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Southeast Arete (unknown) S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Unknow Left-facing Corner to Top T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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Unknown Tips Crack to Face T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
| Type: | Trad, 80 ft (24 m) |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 147 total · 11/month |
| Shared By: | Tony B on Nov 5, 2023 · Updates |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Access Issue: Access issue - Monastery, Cedar Park, Combat Rock, etc. - open since 2023
Details
Per JF M: as of May 2022, there is no signage on-site, nor information on the USFS webpage for the Cameron Peak Fire (nor on their published map of closures) that indicates the area is closed.
Per Bruce Hildenbrand: it appears that the Forest Service has closed access to all the climbing areas accessed via Storm Mountain Road (Monastery, Cedar Park, Combat Rock, etc.) until they can clear all the dangerous dead trees from the Cameron Peak fire.
I worked this issue with Eric Murdock at the AF, and it looks like the Forest Service picked Devil's Gulch Road as the southern boundary even though all the climbing areas on MP.com were not burned.
Description
This is another good route on the SW face of Mikey's Island. This time look just right of Distriminator (5.11+) and Anne's Knotty Fingers (5.11-) to what starts as a handcrack in a 50 foot, left-facing corner.
Start up that crack and corner on thin hands to tight fists until it opens up and gets wide. Set a wide piece (large cam) if you can get a good one as it starts to widen, and then continue up the corner which opens to the point of becoming two opposing and slightly offset aretes. A Bigbro might go here, but I'd think it harder to place than to skip in the steep moves of the top of that corner. Turn around, and find some foot holds on the right hand wall right. About then a bolt appears on the left wall and gives some security to the climbing, which has been steep and hard-to-protect 5.10 for a short while.
Clip the bolt, and surmount the tower, then continue your way up the arete past a few more sections of 5.10 in about 35 more feet of climbing. A yellow Alien and a blue Camalot can be placed along the way of this upper half to significantly reduce the space between some of the protection (bolts), but they are far from necessary. Arrive at the top and clip the anchors, lowering off a bit under 80 feet.
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