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East Peak: Northeast Ridge to East Face

5.6 X, Trad, 400 ft (121 m),  Avg: 1 from 1 vote
FA: unknown
Washington > Central-E Casca… > Stuart-Enchantm… > Ingalls Peak

Description

This route is a bold undertaking and not a good route for average 5.6 climber.  The SW ridge route will be a better choice for most parties.

Ascend the northeast ridge climbing 4th to easy fifth (5.4 max) slabs and cracks.  The rock is excellent.  Reach the ledge at the base of the east face of the east peak.  Climb the face via the path of least resistance for a long pitch to the summit (~65+ m).  The rock is horrible with almost no pro.  This pitch is 5.6 X and not to be taken lightly.  Choosing the wrong holds or the wrong route could have fatal consequences.  The anchor at the summit is good.

Decent: Repel the SW face route.

Location

From Ingalls lake head towards the ridge climbers right of the large gash/couloir in the east peak.  Easy ledges take you to the base of the ridge. 

Protection

Light alpine rack, 70 m rope