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> Beardsley Bould…
> Beardsley Roped Routes
Granite Doxology
5.10 YDS 6b French 20 Ewbanks VII- UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British R
Avg: 3 from 2
votes
Routes in Beardsley Roped Routes
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Short and Sweet T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Oreo McFlurry T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Bitchin' Disco Time T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Granite Doxology T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Dumb Dinos Drunk on Superstition Mead T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Unknown Easy Crack T,TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a |
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Unknown Easy Crack 2 T,TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a |
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Lupe's Layback T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Rotten Adventure T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Captain Crunch S,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Naked Bimbos from Mars T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Brown Sugar S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Grandma Got Run Over By A Raindeer S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Fear of Having Sex with Dead People, The S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Fearless Fantasy S,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Flake, The TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Looks like waterslide T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Chussy T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Teenage Enema Nurses in Bondage T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 |
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Wait until Dark S,TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Snake Pit Arête S,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13 |
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A Little Loose in the Attic T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Unknown Offwidth T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Big Easy, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Spank Your Monkey T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Gripper, The S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Anarchy Crack T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b |
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Slewgundymegahawk T,TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a |
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Entrails T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R |
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Classic Orange T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b V0 4 |
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Hot Sweaty Buns S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Sidewinder TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Trials of the Desert Fathers T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R |
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Onyx Crack T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Onyx Face T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Onyx Arete T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Harrowing of Hades T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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| Type: | Trad, TR, 30 ft (9 m) |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 202 total · 11/month |
| Shared By: | Todd Hinrichsen on Nov 1, 2023 |
| Admins: | Zach Levy, Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen |
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Description
Begin at a large side pull, right of the arete. Climb small edges on the face up to a stance. Place protection in the left angeling crack, then climb straight up using another side pull around the arete. Top out on big edges.
Granite Doxology: a gymnastic formula of praise to God.
Location
The face and arete directly right of the Bitchin’ Disco Time crack. At the right end of the Octopus’s Garden wall. Area F in the Karabin guide.
Protection
Easily toproped by slinging boulders with 20’ webbing. This climb is dangerous to lead but not unreasonably so. The first 15’ feet of climbing is unprotected but crashpads will minimize the risk. A solid medium sized nut, and/or small cam, can be placed in the diagonal crack from a good stance. Falling off the big holds at the top is unlikely but carries a potential for the leader to hit the ground. In case of a fall, the belayer should be prepared to jump off a boulder in order to quickly remove slack.
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