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Lycanthropia, Her Way
5.13a YDS 7c+ French 29 Ewbanks IX+ UIAA 29 ZA E6 6c British PG13
Avg: 3 from 1
vote
Routes in The Spider's Web
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Retrograde T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Wrong again, Chalkbreath T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Bird's Nest T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Arachne T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a X |
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Dacker Cracker T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Jelly Arms T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Chicken Wire T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Cackling of the Hens T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b R |
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Peace In Our Climbs T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b R |
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It's Only Entertainment T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Captain Hooks T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Esthesia T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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On the Edge of Oblivion T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b X |
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Slim Pickins T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Je Me Souviens T 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c R |
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Zabba T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c PG13 |
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TR T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Pumpernickel T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Black Widow T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Only the Good Die Young T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Fear and Loathing in Keene Valley T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Mr. Rogers' Neighborhood T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Monkey See, Monkey Do T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Drop, Fly, or Die T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Lycanthropia T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13 |
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Lycanthropia, Her Way T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c PG13 |
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Normal Route T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Wheelin' N' Dealin' T 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a R |
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Key, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Skeleton Key T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 |
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Romano's Route T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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White Knight Direct T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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White Knight T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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On The Loose T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Grand Hysteria T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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Eternity T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Yvonne T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
| Type: | Trad, 80 ft (24 m) |
| FA: | Kristen Fiore |
| Page Views: | 394 total · 20/month |
| Shared By: | Kristen Fiore on Oct 31, 2023 |
| Admins: | Morgan Patterson, Kevin MudRat MacKenzie, Jim Lawyer |
Description
Lycanthropia is an overlooked climb with one flaw, a traverse into Drop, Fly, or Die. This variation skips the traverse, and replaces it with a fierce boulder problem.
At the horizontal break, place gear and fire directly up through the seam to the sloping "jug" below the next finger crack. Climb this to the hanging flake above and traverse right to the bolted anchor.
(While not much in the way of a "new" route, The Web has other variation pages here and this one felt significant enough to warrant it as it adds yet another 5.13 gear line to The Web's repertoire and in my opinion greatly improves the route character from the original line.)
The crux can be climbed as a runout or protected with a strenuously placed small cam, ballnut, or brassie.
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