Type: Trad, 180 ft (55 m), 2 pitches
FA: Peter Hunt, Brian Smoot & Bill Robins, 1984
Page Views: 236 total · 18/month
Shared By: bsmoot on Oct 26, 2023
Admins: Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane

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Description Suggest change

This adventure route climbs the smooth face on the right side of the upper Pentapitch slab. 

Pitch 1: Start by climbing the first 25' of the 3rd pitch of the Pentapitch. Traverse right to a bolt above a sharp horizontal 2' roof. Continue, balancing right to another bolt and then up past 2 more to a flake system. Climb this for 10' then traverse down and right to another crack system with some stacked blocks. Belay at a tree a few more feet right, (5.10). This pitch needs some long runners. 

Pitch 2: Climb up the blocks (tread lightly here) to a roof. Power over this to the small welcome tree above. From above the roof, clip a pin and face climb up the left side of the slab to a 4" thick horrizontal flake. Traverse right here, underclinging to easier ground.  Belay higher on small ledges. (5.9 or 5.10). We traversed and down climbed East to the top of the Pentapitch to get down. You could also rap from trees down the west side of the slab.

Since the first ascent, this route experienced some slab rockfall which changed the route. The first 2 bolts were not part of the original first ascent. The horizontal roof below used to be a 5" crack, which was easily traversed to the last 2 bolts. All of the old bolts have been replaced with new SS bolts.

Location Suggest change

Right side of the Upper tier of the Pentapitch

Protection Suggest change

1 set of cams to 3". bring some long runners.

Photos

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