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Nuke the Whales
5.10b/c YDS 6b French 20 Ewbanks VII UIAA 20 ZA E2 5b British PG13
Avg: 2 from 1
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Routes in Pentapitch Area
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Dike from Hell T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Endless Torment T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Flashdance T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R |
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Ginseng T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Jackalope T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Japanese Terraces T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Lesbian Seagulls S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R |
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Littlefoot T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Loch Ness Monster T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Neuromancer S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Nubbins Direct T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Nubbins to Nowhere T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Nuke the Whales T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
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Pearls Before Swine S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Pentapass T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Pentapitch T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Pudgy Gumbies T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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Sasquatch T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
| Type: | Trad, 180 ft (55 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | Peter Hunt, Brian Smoot & Bill Robins, 1984 |
| Page Views: | 236 total · 19/month |
| Shared By: | bsmoot on Oct 26, 2023 |
| Admins: | Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane |
Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed
Details
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
Access Issue: Do not cross the pipe by the pumphouse.
Details
Despite "no trespassing" signs climbers have been observed crossing the creek on the pipe at the traditional (pumphouse) parking for the Pentapitch/Coalpit areas. This pipe crossing is dangerous and a slip could be fatal. This area is privately owned and the SLCA saltlakeclimbers.org has a positive relationship with the landowner.
The bridge near Lisa falls is the preferred location to cross the creek.
Down-canyon, the bridge leading to the south side near the Buzz bouldering area has been condemned by the Forest Service. Signs have been posted promising fines for tresspassers. We ask that you obey these signs and find an alternate route to your destination.
Description
This adventure route climbs the smooth face on the right side of the upper Pentapitch slab.
Pitch 1: Start by climbing the first 25' of the 3rd pitch of the Pentapitch. Traverse right to a bolt above a sharp horizontal 2' roof. Continue, balancing right to another bolt and then up past 2 more to a flake system. Climb this for 10' then traverse down and right to another crack system with some stacked blocks. Belay at a tree a few more feet right, (5.10). This pitch needs some long runners.
Pitch 2: Climb up the blocks (tread lightly here) to a roof. Power over this to the small welcome tree above. From above the roof, clip a pin and face climb up the left side of the slab to a 4" thick horrizontal flake. Traverse right here, underclinging to easier ground. Belay higher on small ledges. (5.9 or 5.10). We traversed and down climbed East to the top of the Pentapitch to get down. You could also rap from trees down the west side of the slab.
Since the first ascent, this route experienced some slab rockfall which changed the route. The first 2 bolts were not part of the original first ascent. The horizontal roof below used to be a 5" crack, which was easily traversed to the last 2 bolts. All of the old bolts have been replaced with new SS bolts.
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