Spigolo Castiglioni-Battisti

Note: many belay stations have recently been equipped with 2 new glued-in bolts that may not be mentioned in the older descriptions online.

Pitch 0: scramble up a very easy 5.0 I ramp from the traverse ledge trail, up to the end of the gravel.

Pitch 1 (5.2 II, 50m): head up on easy 5.2 I steps on the left of the chimney and arete. Belay at a 6ft tall 2ft wide spike/rod (or on a thread) on a small ledge.

Pitch 2 (5.3 III, 50m): mount a short vertical 5.3 III face with good holds; 5.2 II traverse right. Belay at 2 new glued-in bolts on a nice large ledge with great views of the pinnacles (gendarmi).

Pitch 3 (5.4 IV, 50m): start on 5.3 III chimney; off right on a vertical 5.4 IV face; finish on a 5.2 II slanted gully. Belay at 2 glued-in rings.

Pitch 4 (5.2 II, 50m): up a wide 5.2 II arete on the right. Then into a slanted 5.1 I gully. Walk left around the corner, climb up a few meters and belay at 2 glued in bolts on a small ledge at the base of a steeper arete.

Pitch 5 (5.4 IV, 40m): start up the 5.4 IV left face of the arete. Move onto the 5.4 IV arete becoming very narrow and exposed. Finish off left on a large yellow alcove with two glued-in rings at the bottom of the vertical wide chimney.

Pitch 6 (5.5 IV+, 45m): climb the 5.5 IV+ chimney/dihedral starting inside (poor rock quality on the left) and eventually moving on its right face 5.5 IV+ crux when tighter; easier toward the end. Belay on 2 new glued in rings at a nice ledge on the left above the chimney.

Pitch 7 (5.5 IV+, 40m): move right toward a chimney/dihedral, then left exposed wide long and sustained face 5.5 IV+ with many slabby holds

Pitch 8 (5.4 IV, 50m): move 2m right then up the 5.4 IV chimney. exit toward the right when the chimney/dihedral becomes smoother. Belay at 2 glued in rings on a wide alcove with a a log book.

Pitch 9 (5.3 III 40m): exposed 5.3 III traverse out right to easier 5.2 II chimney leaning left to the top.

Other descriptions in Italian:

https://www.redclimber.it/relazione/arrampicata/arrampicata-pale-di-san-martino/cima-di-roda-castiglioni-battisti/
https://www.sassbaloss.com/pagine/uscite/roda/roda.htm
https://www.gulliver.it/itinerari/roda-cima-via-castiglioni-battisti/
http://www.rampegoni.it/file/vie/PaleSMartino/Castiglioni-cimaroda.pdf
https://orsettoclimber.blogspot.com/2016/07/via-castiglionibattisti-cima-di-roda.html
http://quartogrado.com/volume1_2/relazioni/ANTICIMA%20DI%20RODA_Castiglioni_A.htm

Other description in English:
https://www.summitpost.org/croda-di-roda/577519
https://www.rifugiorosetta.it/en/climbing.asp

TOPOs:
http://quartogrado.com/volume1_2/relazioni/PALE_foto/ANTICIMA%20DI%20RODA_Castiglioni_sito.jpg
http://quartogrado.com/volume1_2/relazioni/PALE_foto/ANTICIMA%20DI%20RODA_Castiglioni_attacco.jpg
http://quartogrado.com/volume1_2/relazioni/PALE_foto/ANTICIMA%20DI%20RODA_Castiglioni_base.jpg
http://quartogrado.com/volume1_2/relazioni/PALE_foto/ANTICIMA%20DI%20RODA_Castiglioni_sosta3.jpg

Videos:
https://youtu.be/hqVE1jam6fM?t=192
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aoixdVIdc7o
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LMiDrzoTi_o

NOTE: Rock climbing is inherently a potentially very dangerous activity if not practiced with the necessary preparation and experience. This description is the result of the peronsal experience of the author and it CANNOT be considered unquestionably reliable. The author of this description shall NOT be liable for any lost profits or indirect, incidental, special, exemplary, punitive or consequantial damages, including but not limited to any damages due to possible errors and including but not limited to any possible incovenience, accidents, loss or damages of any kind that may result from using the information in this description.

Approach. Park in the free parking lot in front of the cable car Funivia Rosetta in San Martino di Castrozza (TN). Take both the legs of the cable car to the very top (2,665m). Here is a topo map of the cable cars. In 2023 the cable car was open from From 17 June to 1 October and the first run was at 8.10am check the time table. From the top station of the cable car, follow the 10 minutes wide trail to the Rifugio Rosetta (Pedrotti)(2,581m). Take the zig-zagging downhill trail No 702. When you are at about 220m lower i.e. at the level of the large gravel ledge, traversing on a scrambling trail all the way out to the arete.

Descent. From the very top of Cima Roda start hiking NW in the direction of the visible Rifugio. From the rifugio take the short trail to the Funivia Rosetta before it closes in the evening (in 2023 the last departure from the top was at 4.40pm check the timetable). If you miss it your last resort is to hike downhill about 1h30m to 2 hours on trail N. 702 (i.e. the same you used for the first part of the approach) to the bottom Val di Roda and then to the bottom station of the cable car in San Martino di Castrozza. Here are more informations and maps: [ref 1, 2]

2 glued-in rings on almost all belay stations. standard rack and several threads plus a long cordolette for spikes/rods useful.