All Locations > Colorado > S Platte > Staunton SP > Raven

The Unkindness

Name: The Unkindness
Rating: 3.5

5.13b YDS 8a French 29 Ewbanks IX+ UIAA 30 ZA E7 6c British

Routes in The Raven

L › R R › L A › Z

	Aerial Acrobatics S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Fight Secondary S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Flight Bombay S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
	Flight Primary S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Grey Jay S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Grip S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
	Huginn T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Magpie S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Morrigan, The S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Muninn S 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
	Optunivor T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Pilgrimage to Lordran S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Playing in the Updraft S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Rave On TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Rook, The S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Steller's S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Trickster in Black T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Unkindness, The S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
	Welcome to Baltimore S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Yatagarasu T,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

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Type:	Sport, 50 ft (15 m)
FA:	Chandler Van Schaack, 10/15/23
Page Views:	628 total · 39/month
Shared By:	Chandler Van Schaack on Oct 16, 2023
Admins:	Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC Page Updates (admin only)

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Access Issue: Falcon Closures Details

Seasonal Falcon Closures in effect from March 15 - July 31.

- Lion's Head
- Roughneck Area
- Wildcatter Wall

Note that the annual closures of the Park View Dome, The Ranch Hand, Black Creek Wall, and Sawmill Crag have been permanently lifted. These cliffs will continue to be monitored, but will only close if a new nest is spotted.

Seasonal Falcon closures in effect from March 15 - July 31. - Lion's Head (not pictured). - Roughneck Area. There are no closures at Staunton Rocks.

Description

The Unkindness is Staunton’s newest (as of October ’23) mini-testpiece. It is essentially the free version of “Corax,” which Alan Prehmus did as a C2 aid climb in 2022. It follows the prominent black streak/seam system on the right side of the slightly overhanging wall between Optunivor and Welcome to Baltimore/Flight Bombay. While short in stature, the route is unrelenting in difficulty and is essentially comprised of four boulder problems stacked on top of each other with no real rests to speak of. The climbing is powerful, insecure, and technical and may prove to be particularly unkind to those with smaller wingspans. The rock quality is exceptional (for Staunton), and the movement is super unique and fun, with some kneebar trickery down low, a bit of compression, some tricky finger locking, and a wild redpoint crux “bird move” between bolts 5 and 6 that will put your fight or flight instincts to the test.

I sent it with the first two bolts stick-clipped. While this is probably not strictly necessary, it eliminates a potential ground fall if you were to botch the second clip on the go. A long draw is nice to have on the last bolt. At least one knee pad (right) is recommended, as is taping the top of the left index finger (just trust me). Because the route is so short and the clips demanding, an attentive belay is required (think “tight but soft”).

Many thanks to Alan Prehmus for reaching out and giving his blessing to bolt this line.

Location

It follows the prominent black streak/ seam system on the right side of the slightly overhanging wall between Optunivor and Welcome to Baltimore/Flight Bombay.