Type: Boulder, 18 ft (5 m)
FA: unknown
Page Views: 220 total · 16/month
Shared By: Toby Jacobs on Oct 15, 2023
Admins: BDalhaus, Brad Fauteux, Jay Knower, M Sprague, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

Seems like an obvious and fun line but I don't see it in any of the guides or on here, so here it is. 

Go into Gandalf's Cave and this climbs the left face (entering from Lobster Tail). Sit-start with hands on the obvious block and use foot jams/cams in the space to work to the left crimp a couple feet above the low lip and then hit the better right crimp (this move seems like the crux). Lock off and move left to the flake and then do some slab stuff to gain the left arete. Easy but fun and high top out with your left hand wrapping the arete.

A slightly harder line would avoid wrapping the arete, and a much harder line would avoid the aretes altogether til the top. The fall would be weird since the other face is close to your back and it's tough to fit a pad in some of the landing zone.

Climbing the two faces as an easy off-width also seems like a great line that I don't see on here fwiw.

Location Suggest change

Looking at Lobster Tail, crawl into the cave to the left of it. This starts on the block at the bottom of the face that's on your left (and avoids the face on your right that will be right at your back the whole way up).

Protection Suggest change

1 pad for bottom, not really sure about the best way to protect the top

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