El Muro
5.8 YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British PG13
Avg: 3 from 1 vote
Type: | Sport, 300 ft (91 m), 3 pitches |
FA: | Juan Ricardo, 11-10-81 |
Page Views: | 153 total · 11/month |
Shared By: | Ben Matthews on Oct 10, 2023 |
Admins: | Robert Hall, Jason Halladay, David Riley |
Description
Pros: setting/scenery, consistently steep for the grade, good rock, top out highest point in the area.
Cons: runouts, mediocre movement
Really good chill day trip from the monastery. If 5.8 is your limit this will be a scary climb with the runouts.
P1 - 5.8 - Spot the first bolt ~15ft off the ground above a blue painted dot on the wall. Follow bolts straight up/slightly left to a 3 bolt anchor in a small cave thing.
P2 - 5.8 - Continue straight up. There is a section that has two slung chockstones for pro, neither of which is very confidence inspiring, creating a ~30ft runout between good bolts. The climbing isn't as hard there though. After that runout there is a well bolted small roof right below the anchor.
P3 - 5.6 - Spot the piton in the corner ~15ft above the anchor. From there step up and right over the overlap. Head up and left along the top of the overlap before heading to the summit. There are 2 or three bolts along the way and some fun exposure. There are a couple anchors on the summit, we just wandered around until we found one ~40ft below and a bit left of the summit
Descent - I have read that you can rap the route. From the P2 anchor it's 60m to the ground. We walked off and got lost in the small thorny gullies part way down. If you stay on course the walk off is easy and fun with a little down climb chimney near the top.
Location
Less than an hour hike from the Monastery if you don't get lost. This is on the opposite side (N Aspect) of L'Elefant as viewed from the Monastery. All the beta I could find online said to go to the St. Benet Refuge and wrap around east of L'Elefant but we couldn't find an easy route from there and had to rap off a small tree to get to the base. From the climb we could see a better approach trail but I'm not sure where it comes from. See photos for more beta. The start of the route is on a good spot of flat ground and marked by a blue dot of paint on the wall (there are other blue dots in the vicinity too).
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