Kiss of the Wasp
5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British
Type: | Sport, 525 ft (159 m), 6 pitches |
FA: | Megan and Aaron W, 2024 |
Page Views: | 490 total · 25/month |
Shared By: | Aaron Wait on Oct 7, 2023 · Updates |
Admins: | Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Zachary Winters, Mitchell McAuslan |
Description
Another nice adventure. The first pitch might be one of the best on the wall! There were wasps on route when I was bolting hence the name.
P1: 5.10-, 37m, 13(ish) bolts - easier climbing up juggy flake down low leads to more sustained edging + friction with a crux guarding the anchor
P2: 5.8, 25m, 10 bolts or so- easy climbing up till a few moves guarding the anchors
P3: 5.8, 20m, 8 bolts, similar deal to last pitch.
P4: Move the belay lookers left over and behind the big tree to a belay bolt
P5: 5.5, 15m, 4 bolts, head up the dirty easy rock to the top of a small pillar.
P6: 5.8, 35m, 11 bolts or so - bolt 4 or 5 really should be like 10ft to the left. I'm sorry. You can either just send it, or you can clip it, down climb and do the easier moves over to the left. Maybe I'll try to fix this at some point.
Descent: Walking down is recommended - top out and hike 110 yards north-north-west (climbers left) to the main Garfield ledges overlook and follow the trail back down.
Alternatively, you can also rap the route with a 70m but p6 is slightly longer than 35m and will require scrambling. P1 is a bit of a stretch and you have to aim for slightly uphill. Tie knots!! Alternatively, beginning at P5 anchors, rappel straight through the gap between the trees. You'll locate two distinct climbing runs (not documented on MP) -- tested climber's left of these two runs has shiny rap rings and chains, quality gear all the way down to the ground with a 70m.
Location
Follow the approach as for the rest of the routes on the wall. When the climbers path heads sharply up left, go straight instead. Bushwack your way straight across the hillside. Pass below the toe of the slab-apron and start heading up and right contouring with the base of the wall (on your left hand side). Eventually you will run into bolts heading up the wall, this is the start of the first pitch.
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