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Tea and Muffins
5.10a YDS 6a French 18 Ewbanks VI+ UIAA 18 ZA E1 5a British
Avg: 1.8 from 10
votes
Routes in Middle Earth
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Bobbin' for Hobbits S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Breeze, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Bump, The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Centennial S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Delirious S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Delirium Variation S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c PG13 |
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Earth Angel S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Elevenses S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Elfin Warrior S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Fireball S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Gift that keeps on giving., The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Gift, The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Grand Opening S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Hobbit In A Blender S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Hobbitual Offender S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Infectious S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Irresistible S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Just a Fantasy T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Middle Earth S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Planet Eater, The S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Premonition S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Pull Me Up S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Red Hot S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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S'Blended S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Second Breakfast S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Silmarillion S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Tea and Muffins S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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War Of The Worlds S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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You Betchy It's Sketchy S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
| Type: | Sport, 65 ft (20 m) |
| FA: | Karen Wilson, Don Wilson, Sept 2023 |
| Page Views: | 307 total · 22/month |
| Shared By: | Don Wilson on Sep 30, 2023 |
| Admins: | adrian montaño, Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen |
Description
Tea and Muffins - a hobbit’s breakfast. This route is a nice addition at a more moderate grade to this section of Middle Earth. Use it as a warmup for the nearby 11s, or as a complement to the more slabby moderate routes such as Earth Angel and Silmarillion.
The route starts with a couple moves past a bolt to a flake. It then traverses right and over a bulge (crux), using some cool underclings. After surmounting the bulge, it goes up and mostly left - traversing diagonally thru good holds and rests. You will clip several bolts as you move up and left until you reach a corner/flake system that heads straight up. Climb up this corner and flakes past a couple more bolts and a small roof to reach the anchor.
Location
Hike to the far right side of Middle Earth, near Earth Angel. Here you can see the adjacent wall that is right of the big chimney system. An obvious path leads over to this wall. There are three routes on this wall - Tea and Muffins is the leftmost of these 3 routes. It starts at the left hand side of a small cave that lies at the base of this wall. Second Breakfast is the next route to the right, and starts at the right hand edge of the cave. Elevenses is just a few feet right of Second Breakfast. All three routes have brown colored bolts.
One additional route, Hobbitual Offender (5.11), is just around the corner to the right of these three routes.
You can hike to the base of the route from Earth Angel in about 1 minute.
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