Hairline Free

The much sought-after Hairline went free from the ground on September 22, 2023. 

Nearly four decades after the visionary FA by Bruce Bindner (Brutus of Wyde) and Alex Schmauss, and after much free climbing effort by different parties in the recent years, this legendary aid climb has finally gone free. Standing at the base of the East Face of Mt. Whitney, I could hardly imagine the vision and audacity it had taken Bruce and Alex to blast off onto this most intimidating line. Obvious yes, but bone-chilling to stare at all the same: a blank overhung headwall at 13,000+ feet, split by what seemed only a hairline crack, stretching upward for several hundred feet. Without their ahead-of-their-time vision, we wouldn't be here today enjoying the freedom of moving on rock into thin air. I am certainly proud of what Connor and I managed to do, but we were only standing on the shoulder of giants. Rest In Peace. 

Read Bruce's FA Trip Report here: https://www.summitpost.org/hairline-first-ascent/169956

Hairline Free, 5.13+(+?), 13 pitches, 2000'

The climbing is excellent, and rock generally very good for the Whitney zone. There are sections of 5.easy up to 5.12- (not quite R, but spooky for sure!) where one should be careful and tread lightly, but overall good rock and amazing climbing! Most of the bolts are older 1/4" bolts, but all the bolts on Pitch 1 and a few anchor bolts were upgraded to 3/8" in an ASCA rebolting effort in 2004 (by Bruce Bindner, Elmar Stefke and their respective wives Em Holland, Lisa Stefke). We hand drilled 6 bolts to make this a sensible free climb - 5 bolts were for free climbing anchors at good stances, and 1 bolt to protect a 5.12 slab section that climbs to the right of a blank 3-bolt A0 clip-up section. Aside from the one added bolt for protecting that slab section, the entire route is protected by cams/wires and in-situ gear as we found them (mostly 1/4" bolts, old pitons and copperheads). The aid anchors were placed every 50 meters, but this resulted in heinous hanging belays and no stances whatsoever (and also poor clipping holds). We feel that our anchor additions made minimal changes to the nature of the aid climb, and we are confident that future ascent parties will find that to be the case. (Note: I tried to reach out via email to the widow of Bruce Bindner prior to my first attempt but did not succeed in making contact.)

I first envisioned this dream and started believing in it in 2019 when I was able to redpoint the crux pitch, but COVID, wildfires and lack of partners kept me away from fully realizing the dream until I met the phenom kid Connor Herson at Whizz Dome (introduced by Tom Herbert) in Tuolumne this summer, and a week later we were both giddy as kids driving up together to the Portal.

Connor is every bit of a phenomenal rock climber as he is a hard worker. We hiked up to Iceberg Lake from the Portal, each laden with a 65lb+ pack on Tuesday afternoon. For the next 2 days we scrubbed and scrubbed, hand drilled, and jugged up and down the crux pitches to rehearse the moves. At night we endured 40-50MPH gusts at our pitiful little camp next to Iceberg Lake and wind chill in the single digits. Then on Day 3 (Friday), without a rest day, we went for the push from Pitch 1. Our tactic was simple - we would take turns leading each crux pitch until one of us freed it, then we would push on to the next pitch - a team free ascent would be infinitely preferred over a no-send. We were on a time crunch, as Connor had to be at Stanford on Sunday morning! 

We wanted to do the entire route in order, and placing all gear on the go. I honestly did not care for stripping the gear after each attempt, but Connor insisted on this style, so I went along with it. We also did not stash any food or water or gear, and hauled everything we needed with us from leaving the ground on Pitch 1. Connor is the stronger of us two, so it made sense for him to have the first attempt on Pitch 3 (5.13+). For the first time on our trip, he became nervous and serious. BUT HE ABSOLUTELY SMASHED IT ON THE FIRST TRY! I was so relieved not having to lead this pitch, because I remembered how effing deep I had to dig back in 2019 when I redpointed it. We are above 13,000 ft at this point! He was so winded at the anchor that the hauling took him a while - all the while, I was howling from joy, and at the same time I also felt a bit vindicated that even the Connor Herson had to really dig deep on this monster pitch. Much to my own surprise, I followed this pitch clean (nearly throwing up at the anchor - much like 2019!). I almost had to take at one point because a tiny Z4 cam wouldn't come out, in the midst of a layback section, but I just managed. The next 2 crux pitches were much easier, and we had a no-fall day. 

We made it to the "Big Sandy" East Face Ledge by 5pm. We decided to not top out that day, even though only 3 more pitches up to 5.9 and some 4th class guard the summit. We had no crampons and knew that the Mountaineer's route was extra icy and snowy this year than many previous years. As the older (and more experienced in this terrain) of the two, I felt responsible for this decision. I cautioned against a night-time summitting and descent, even at the cost of a better "in-a-day" ascent style; Connor concurred. We summited the next morning around 11AM in the glorious sun and practically skipped down to Iceberg Lake, and of course getting chastised for not having crampons by some old-school mountain guides. The respite was brief though - we had to break camp and get Connor back to school. 

Most of the route goes free at a moderate 5.10 grade. Three hard pitches guarded the upper headwall - an incredible 55m monster pitch of 5.13+ (insecure 13- layback, then boulder, boulder, boulder!), followed by a 5.12 slab/face/layback/crack climb and a 5.13- steep layback offset crack. From here the climbing eases again to 5.10, then some 5.9 romping takes you to 4th class terrain. Winded and tired, we simul-ed for a long while in the blissful sun to the summit, joining dozens of hikers in our collective successful visit to the highest point in the lower 48.

Thus by a chance meet and a quick bonding, one of the most beautiful and also currently the hardest free climb in the Sierra Nevada (and fittingly on its highest peak) was established over 5 days.

Other friends who helped in the effort of freeing this route in the past include: Ronnie Lojewska, Danny Effinger, Cameron Smith, and of course the undeniably exceptional Shino Jomoto. Thank you guys!

Mt. Whitney East Face

Doubles from tiny to #2, singles #3, #4. 

A dozen draws - some alpine draws help with rope drag.