Business Before Pleasure

This route shares the first two pitches with Finished Business before traversing around to the right to avoid the crux third pitch. This results in a less direct line, but allows for three great pitches of easy/moderate crack climbing (5.7 to 5.8) and excellent views of Mt. Garfield when traversing around to the east face on the last pitch. 

P1 - Locate the left-leaning splitters with a tree at the base. Climb to the left of the tree in an off-finger crack, then step left and jam the crack (thin hands/hands) to a nice belay ledge above. Belay on gear. 70', 5.8

P2 - This next pitch follows a series of left facing corners, decreasing in angle (and difficulty) as you ascend. At the final corner system, step right to a tree and belay here instead of continuing to the Finished Business bolted anchor. 90', 5.8 

Move the belay about 70 feet to the right. While this is simply walking, it is steep and slippery right off the anchor tree and you may want to stay on belay at least for the initial steep bit. Slung horn at next belay. 

P3 - Climb up the series of corners, cracks, and flakes above. Mostly 5.5/5.6 climbing with a single 5.7 move stepping right into a neat flake. Eventually reach a spot where you can pull over onto the east face. Traverse an easy ledge system to the right until finishing up a short wide crack. Scramble up the forest and choose a tree for the belay. 110’, 5.7

Descent

Rappel Finished Business with either one 70m rope or two 60m ropes. See Finished Business route description for details.

To find the first anchor for the rappels: from the tree on top, take a few steps south towards the edge of the cliff. There is one step down past a small, dead tree, and the anchors are to the left of the tree (when facing towards the edge of the cliff). The anchor can't be seen from above, but it is in a safe location to access. If things start feeling sketchy you’re probably not in the right place. 

After hiking up beyond the Goods, turn the corner and pick up cairns following along the bottom of the hill side below the cliff line (heading West). The trail gradually gains elevation traversing the hillside before climbing steeply up towards the cliff, then head right up a gully with a fixed line. The first pitch crack should be clearly visible from here. Should take 10-15 minutes past the end of the Goods.  

Cams from BD #.2 to #3. Doubling up on some cams in the range of #.3 to #2 could be helpful. Nuts not really necessary but bring them if you want.