Type: Trad, Aid, Alpine, 1000 ft (303 m), 9 pitches
FA: F. Leardi and V. Ranzato in 2016
Page Views: 153 total · 10/month
Shared By: David Kozak on Sep 3, 2023
Admins: Tim Wolfe, Shawn Heath

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

Approach:  From Passo Giau, take the trail south toward Forcella di Giau.  Now continue down trail 436 for about 15 minutes or until you are directly beneath the formation.  Scramble up the right side of the scree field that descends just left of the formation.  Plaque at the start.  1 hour 30 minutes or so from the pass.

The first pitch is mostly scrambling on nice rock that deteriorates into scree covered ledges.  The second pitch climbs up a short block and crack past a couple bolts (about 15 meters).  Don't belay at the anchor you first come to but move left about 3 meters to another anchor.  Pitch 3 holds the crux with a 25 meter pitch of hard free climbing and strenuous aid that is sufficiently bolted and pinned.  After the aid traverse one has to make solid 10a moves past a little overhang and up to the anchor.  The remaining pitches have difficult starts and easier ground above.  All in all an ok route with a fair bit of choss and some good climbing.  All pitches have bolts, from 2 to up to 10.  All anchors are good.

Descent:  Walk in an easterly direction until you spot the first  cairn.  Follow cairns and scramble all the way down the gully and then find your way back to the start.  45 minutes from the top back to start of route.

Location Suggest change

The route is identified by a plaque.

Protection Suggest change

bolts and bring a couple cams and a small set of wired stoppers. 12 alpine runners

Photos

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