Type: Trad, Aid, 2 pitches
FA: Braxton & Breninger
Page Views: 170 total · 8/month
Shared By: Sean Lambert on Aug 29, 2023
Admins: GRK, Zach Wahrer

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

This is the primary climb on the crag, with a captivating huge roof.  The original trad line begins on the right, following cracks diagonally up to the new Mussy Hook anchors.  The best pro is on the higher line, but there is room for variation, and now there are some bolted lines to the same anchors.  Hutchenson's guide shows the first pitch ending where the roof meets the wall, but most climbers stopped where the new anchors are anyway.

The second pitch, rated A1 prior to modern shoe rubber, aids directly up a thin crack in the back of a low-angle joint.  In the late 1980's I was able to climb this using the piton scars (not owning any aid equipment) at around 5.9 up to the roof, and an easy traverse to the line of sketchy old 1/4" split bolts that we never had the guts to try.  There was a fixed piton with a rappel ring there, but I haven't been up there in the last 20 years, so it's probably been replaced by now.  This is where the second pitch starts in Hutchenson's guide; aid out the obvious line of bolts and climb up the roof's face.

Now there are a couple of bolts on the face to the left of the piton ladder crack, and I'd rate that section 5.8, but I only climbed that on top-rope before the bolts were installed.

Location Suggest change

This is the easiest route to find on the crag as it can be seen from the highway.  Start on the right where some cracks provide placements for your pro.

Protection Suggest change

Smaller stoppers in thin shallow cracks, ladders for aiding (pitons not required.)

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