All Locations > California > Joshua Tree NP > Quail Springs Area > Trashcan Rock > Trashcan Rock - W Face

Finger War

Name: Finger War
Rating: 2.0

5.11a/b YDS 6c French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 23 ZA E3 5c British

Routes in Trashcan Rock - West Face

L › R R › L A › Z

	B-1 T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
	B-2 T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
	B-3 T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
	Baby-Point-Five T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
	Bimbo T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a X
	Black Eye T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
	Bloodymir T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Cranny T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Eschar T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
	Eyesore T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
	Eyestrain T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
	Finger War T,TR 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	FLETC T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
	History TR 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
	Karpkwitz T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Profundity T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
	Simpatico T 5.1 2 6 II 7 MD 2a
	Tiptoe T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Trough, The T 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c
	Tulip T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
	Walkway T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13

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Type:	Trad, TR, 40 ft (12 m)
FA:	unknown
Page Views:	250 total · 14/month
Shared By:	Jordan Burkhardt on Aug 28, 2023
Admins:	Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes, Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest Page Updates (admin only)

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Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

The Joshua Tree National Park Superintendent's Compendium states that:
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock colored bolt hangers are allowed.

For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit:
nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…

Description

Step up on the rock and start with tough moves through the finger crack. Then use a sloper to head left to join Tulip & Bimbo/[Redacted] to the top.

You could just do the crux finger crack and sloper and then down climb bimbo for a boulder problem that would be V2.

Location

The obvious finger crack between Tulip and Bimbo/[Redacted].

Protection

#0.5-#2 cams for a top rope anchor, set up using one of the easier and safer routes to the left. For lead small protection could be placed in the finger crack and a medium cam could be placed at the top of Tulip's crack where the routes merge. One bolt protects the crux of the slab section.