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Broken Palace Bypass

5.10a/b, Trad, 100 ft (30 m),  Avg: 2 from 1 vote
FA: Ross & Robb
Colorado > Lyons > St Vrain Canyons > N Fork of the S… > Palace

Description

This route is a bypass on the 11d route called Broken Palace put up by Landis & Peth in 2003. From the tree at the top of the huge slab below the headwall near the top of the crag, climb up, then traverse along a good, horizontal flake. Make big stem moves to reach the slightly overhanging crack in the corner. Go up the corner OH crux with good gear to a stance. Continue up easier dihedrals and corner cracks trending left the whole way to the summit. A upper dihedral with vegetation can be bypassed on the left but with less gear.

Location

This starts at the large tree which sits at the top of the big slab below the headwall near the top of the crag.

Protection

A standard rack with extra cams up to a #4.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Follow cracks to the overhang above the tree which is seen in pic as dark green below the shadows of the dihedral overhang.
[Hide Photo] Follow cracks to the overhang above the tree which is seen in pic as dark green below the shadows of the dihedral overhang.