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Broken Palace Bypass
5.10a/b YDS 6a+ French 19 Ewbanks VI+ UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British
Avg: 2 from 1
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Routes in The Palace
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Broken Palace Bypass T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Middle Earth T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Swat Team T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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| Type: | Trad, 100 ft (30 m) |
| FA: | Ross & Robb |
| Page Views: | 164 total · 10/month |
| Shared By: | Ross Swanson on Aug 27, 2023 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Description
This route is a bypass on the 11d route called Broken Palace put up by Landis & Peth in 2003. From the tree at the top of the huge slab below the headwall near the top of the crag, climb up, then traverse along a good, horizontal flake. Make big stem moves to reach the slightly overhanging crack in the corner. Go up the corner OH crux with good gear to a stance. Continue up easier dihedrals and corner cracks trending left the whole way to the summit. A upper dihedral with vegetation can be bypassed on the left but with less gear.
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