Type: Trad, Alpine, 800 ft (242 m), 9 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 298 total · 18/month
Shared By: Jackson J on Aug 25, 2023
Admins: Bogdan Petre, David Riley, Luc-514

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Description Suggest change

P1 25m 8 - Start as for Voie Mazeaud, but set a belay at a large ledge with one bolt. 

P2 30m 11b - Traverse horizontally rightward on a foot rail for 20' (exciting), until you can clip a bolt on the face. Head straight up from the bolt on extremely thin and technical slab for two more bolts. Continue straight up from the last bolt on broken cracks and face holds to reach a two bolt anchor below the roof. 

P3 25m 12c - Climb up and right off the belay and clip two bolts before reaching a seam that leads up to the roof. Place some gear (and clip some fixed gear), before you commit to the completely horizontal roof crack. Jam out the crack and boulder over the lip to a stance, then continue up the vertical crack for 30' to a small ledge and a two bolt anchor. 

P4 35m - Climb left off the belay along the ledge, and then up the right side of the arete/face until you can move left to the belay for Voie Mazeaud. Continue past this belay upward using sidepulls, fingers, and tricky sequences to a bulge, clip a bolt (crux) and make moves out right on the face to a flake system. At the top of the flake undercling out right ove the lip to a two bolt anchor.

P5 35m 11d - This pitch is incredibly splitter and sustained! Climb the vertical to overhanging left facing corner from hands to offwidth, clipping two colts as the crack gets wide. A 4" piece or two are useful for this pitch. Belay at a large ledge above the corner (gear anchor) or continue another 40' up and right at the belay for the Rebuffat-Raquet.

P6 - Continue up (4?) pitches of the Rebuffat-Raquet to the summit.

Location Suggest change

Shares a start with Voie Mazeaud at a splitter crack on the far left side of the Midi South Face. Consider racking up closer to the toe of the formation and have the leader lead the first pitch to avoid rockfall danger from the gully on the left.

Protection Suggest change

Doubles to #4

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