North Face (Ice Cold Zach Daniel's)

Map: caltopo.com/m/4TVCV

From the furthest your car will go, head to the final turnaround at (47.37318, -121.45800). A Subaru Crosstrek will make it to the "Parking" spot on the map (47.37516, -121.45316). From there, take the west-most trail heading towards the first ridge to the west. There IS a trail that will take you through the woods most of the way up bypassing the scree field. The trail does split, wander, and become difficult to find at times, so if all else fails the rock field to the west of this 'sub ridge' is also acceptable. Admire the beautiful meadows and tairns on the way up through the woods. 

Scramble to the base (not of the route but the face), head climber's right towards the obvious gully then left along the muddy ledge. Mind your step on the ledge. Locate the belay anchor.

Side note: the existence of this trail is strange as it takes anybody to pretty much nowhere except the top of the basin. We stumbled upon it while trying to find an easy way up, and it is perfect for getting to the base of the face. The trail follows the west 'sub-ridge' easily through the woods, terminating at the base of the rock field below the route. If there is any information on why this trail exists I would love to know more.

10 quickdraws. 60-meter rope.

As of 8/2/2024, it is totally possible to use a 60-meter rope on the route. Please ignore Daniel's comment about 'not being able to get off the route' with less than a 70-meter rope :)

DISCLAIMER: The rock here is quite solid except for a few spots. We spent a lot of time cleaning out the big stuff and the dirt but some loose rock remains. Be careful where you place your hands and feet. Wear a helmet.

P1: 3 bolts, 30 feet, 5.7: From the belay anchor, head up loose rock until the first bolt. Past the first bolt, the rock is solid. Use the solid jugs past two bolts straight up to the P1 anchor. P1 and P2 may be linked with a 60-meter rope.

P2: 6 bolts, 90 feet, 5.8: From the P1 anchor, head just a few feet right, unless you want to pull the roof. Head up, finding dirty but solid jugs to a cruxy slab for feet and a side pull above. Continue pulling good jugs until reaching a small runout to the P2 anchor.

P3: 9 bolts, 95 feet, 5.9+: The crux & money pitch. From the P2 anchor, go straight up, following bolts. Head climber's left, using crimpy but solid holds on good rock. Push through the crux up and left to a fun airy step to the "Pristine Ledge". The final bolt before the anchor is optional but it will protect a follower fall and prevent a pendulum across the airy step. Mantle onto the ledge and walk left. Step up onto another ledge where the P3 anchor resides.

P4: 3 bolts, 30 feet, 5.9: Trend far left from the anchor towards the loose rock cluster. Stay just right of the rock cluster on the good rock past two bolts to a fun pull-up move to the last bolt. Clip the last bolt before the ledge and mantle. Climb through the moss and dirt to the P4 top-out anchor. Belay from the top out.

The route's name comes from a discussion with a nice gentleman at the top of Silver Peak on our first work day when Daniel and I mentioned we hadn't figured out a route name yet. The kind sir asked, "What are your names?" We answered "Zach and Daniel." He responded, "Well there you go."

Rappel

• The most recommended choice is to rappel the rappel route, which provides a more technical but quicker descent on the same trail as the approach. 4x 60-meter rappels straight down from the top get you back to the scree field. 
• R1: Rappel straight down from the P4 top-out anchor to the P3 anchor which is also the R2 anchor.
• R2: Rappel straight down from the P3/R2 anchor with chains keeping an eye out for the R3 anchor. 
• R3: Rappel to the belay ledge from the R3 anchor. Walk climber's left along the ledge around the corner to find the R4 anchor.
• R4: Rappel to the ground from the ledge. Beware the rockfall while pulling the rope.

Walk-Off

• One may choose to walk off the peak by taking the South Ridge of Silver Peak to the Pacific Crest Trail, heading north to USFS Road 9070.