Bluebell

WARNING (9/15/24): A rockfall event occurred at the top of P13, slightly to the right. The hardware appears to be undamaged but dust and debris exist on the slab pitches (P11-13). The lower route is out of the fall path but it would be wise to avoid climbing above the roofs (P8-10) the rest of this season until nature can do its work. Next season, it will likely still need some cleaning and trundling to get it back in shape. See comments for an account and photos for an image of the rock scar.

For many years Michal Rynkiewicz and I had been individually contemplating developing a route on the North Norwegian Buttress of Mt. Index’s middle summit, and realized in the spring of 2023 through our mutual friend Stamati Anagnostou that we were keen on the same line. We decided to team up and convinced Stamati to join. 

My interest deepened after climbing Vanishing Point on Dolomite Tower of Mt. Baring. I suspected the rock would be similar, offering exceptional face climbing. However, along with its reputation for detached blocks, several aspects made the North Norwegian Buttress more daunting. There was no easy trail to the top of the buttress, and there was no established free route on the face, with 3, possibly unrepeated, aid routes far to either side of where we hoped to find a line. 

Over 20+ days from May to mid-August, we worked ground-up to create a unique addition to Washington multipitch climbing. We were amazed that this wall surpasses Dolomite Tower on Mt. Baring in steepness, length, and variety of climbing. The rock overall is quite good though it took more cleaning than Dolomite Tower. It has a bit of a Canadian Rockies feel.

We think some people will elect to climb the route in multiple days because of its length and sustained difficulty, though climbing it in a day is possible. I climbed the route on August 11th, 2023, with Luke Stefurak's support. Michal and Stamati sent over two days, August 21-22, 2023, derigging the route on the way down.

Thanks goes to Austin Siadak for joining on the initial push, Mike Kerzhner for leading the last Headwall pitch and belaying on our summit push, and Luke Stefurak for his help finalizing details, including rap anchors and late-add bolts, and belaying me on my one day ascent.

Michal, who had a fondness for birds and flowers, proposed the name "Harebell" for the route, inspired by the resilient flowers that could be found in unexpected locations along the wall. Another name for this flower is the "Scottish Bluebell" or simply "Bluebell," which led us to settle on the name "Bluebell" for the route.

Michal's death in a rappelling accident at the Index Town Walls on October 27th, 2023 was a devastating loss. We had plans for many more climbs in the Skykomish Valley, and I was looking forward to the opportunity to explore new walls with him. His passion for exploring and creating new climbing experiences was unmatched. I have never met someone who worked as tirelessly as he did. Despite this, he managed to maintain a balance between his time with his new wife, Sara, his friends and family, his work, and personal training. Earlier this year, he and Sara had made the decision to move to Index, a decision that only served to amplify his accomplishments. In an impressive display of energy and dedication, he established single pitch crags, numerous routes on Index's Upper Town Wall, a new bouldering area, and spent nearly every weekend with me between early June and late August on the NNB. I am immensely grateful to have had the opportunity to meet and work alongside him, and I am certain that Bluebell will stand as a lasting testament to his genius and his impact on the climbing community.

Follow North Norwegian Buttress approach. The route starts on the lowest part of the buttress, about 200 feet left from an abandoned fixed line.

We did what we could (within reason) to make climbing Bluebell as safe of an experience as possible, but this is a serious mountain wall and some loose rock remains. Parties on the route should use caution when there are multiple teams on the wall. Make sure you are aware of each other, and if you are the lower team, consider stashing gear, swimming in Lake Serene, and returning a different day. Natural rockfall is also a possibility, especially when snow on the upper parts of the buttress is still melting. However, the steepness of the route does offer some protection from human-triggered and natural rockfall. Don’t be surprised by large rockfall events coming from the gullies and lower angle choss of Mt. Index — they are not uncommon.

The wall is unique in that it has several distinct parts, undulating between slab and vert to overhangs and roofs, giving the route a lot of variety in its climbing. We tried to make pulling through cruxes easy and believe anyone comfortable on 5.12 will enjoy climbing on this route up to the Big Overhang crux pitch (P14). On P14 and P15, to aid a couple hard sections, a stick clip or rodeo-clipping permas is required. A great day would be to climb up through the Roofs to the bivy ledge above pitch 12 and then rap. However, for those up for the task, the Headwall is not to be missed! The rock is full of surprises. Enjoy!

NOTE: Pitch lengths are approximations, erring towards rounding up. Grades are also approximations. Feedback welcome.

Toe (P1-4)

The Toe contains mostly quite high quality climbing on under vert rock with a bit of ledge scrambling.

1. 5.11 (50m) – Scramble up and right onto a pedestal with a single bolt to start the climb. Don’t get pulled out left to the rap anchor. Belaying from the talus will result in rope drag. Ledgy climbing leads to a leftward arching corner on good rock. A fun start to the climb.

2. 4th class (15m) – Either move belay up and left so that belayer is protected from any rockfall or link with next pitch. 

3. 5.11- (30m) – Climb easy blocky terrain to gain a tongue of clean rock. Many hours were spent trundling huge blocks off this pitch. It will never be a great pitch but it’s a lot better than it was before.

4. 5.12- (15m) – Continue up clean, sculpted slab to a crux stepping right. Pull over onto a sloping ledge below overhanging shield.

Shield (P5-7)

You can’t tell how steep the Shield is until you’re right under it. The first two pitches are slightly overhanging and the last pitch mostly just under vert. 

5. 5.12- (20m) – Step down right before moving up to jugs. Then trend left on fun, airy edges to a stance in a dike. A direct variation (closed project) climbs straight up.

6. 5.13- (30m) – Dike Pitch. Climb up the dike (5.11+) to a ~V7 crux boulder on textureless pinches. Keep it together for a pumpy and airy 5.12 traverse right on amazing edges and a giant slippery foot ramp to a good stance.

7. 5.11 (30m) – Intriguing face climbing leads to a cool roof pull. Follow juggy sidepulls and edges to a belay in a corner.

Roofs (P8-10)

Steep 3D climbing! We were surprised to find 5.12 climbing through these roofs – the holds kept appearing!

8. 5.12- (15m) – Continue up the dihedral past a large rock scar (yeah, that one was scary) to a hard step right on small crimps. Pull around arete to a sloping stance. With a few well-placed runners, linking into the next pitch is recommended. It avoid an uncomfortable stance and results in a more full-value pitch!

9. 5.12 (15m) – Climb through a wild roof using underlings, jugs, and a magical pinch. Finish with airy compression to another sloping stance. One of the best pitches on the route. 

10. 5.12 (15m) – Climb up corner, laybacking and stemming to an airy lip encounter and a belay in an alcove.

Slab (P11-13)

Time for face and slab tech. Expect good, on your toes, technical climbing on great rock.

11. 5.11- (30m) – Climb left facing corner using mainly face holds and occasionally the crack and well placed juniper. Pull right out of corner to a good stance.

12. 5.11+ (35m) – Climb a tricky slab off the belay and continue up great stone to a good ledge. The ledge is a poor bivy for one, but is a great spot for a portaledge bivy. Additional bolts were added for portaledges. 

13. 5.12 (36m) – Wonderful slightly under-vert climbing leads to a layback crux before gaining the right edge of a small roof. Continue up easier climbing past a rap anchor to a ledge below the big overhang. Be mindful of loose rock on this ledge.

Headwall (P14-17)

In my travels to various North American mountain walls, the Headwall of North Norwegian Buttress stands out as one of the most insane places to be. It initially starts very steep with the “Big Overhang” and then rounds out to slightly overhanging climbing, but stays overhanging for all 4 pitches.

14. 5.13- (45m) – Big Overhang P1. Climb straight up from the belay through a section of choss below a small roof (be careful). After a tricky boulder through a second roof, start trending left on underclings and wild incuts. Pull left through slopers and small edges (~V6) to a shallow corner system. Continue up on sidepulls and jugs, passing a rap anchor, to a redpoint boulder (~V5) over a bulge. Absolutely insane. With the perma-draws in place for rappel, only 5 additional draws are needed.

15. 5.12 (20m) – Big Overhang P2. Climb sidepulls and compression blocks to a boulder at the lip of the overhang. Another 5 star pitch.

16. 5.11- (20m) – Climb jugs and pockets to a good stance.

17. 5.12 (35m) – Climb on bizarre holds over bulgy terrain to a slightly overhanging face crux on crimps. Trend left and up on jugs to a belay below some cedar at the top of the headwall. Phenomenal climbing and a final sting in the tail.

Summit (P18-21)

We cleaned these pitches minimally so expect mountain climbing. The rock is good and climbing enjoyable, just be mindful of looseness on ledges.  

18. 5.8 (20m) – Climb out of the headwall with hands on rock and feet on cedars. Link with next pitch.

19. 5.8 (35m) – Climb a fun corner to a stance below a slab.

20. 5.7 (35m) – Continue straight up easy slab to a jutting out rock. Can link with the next pitch for rope stretcher to summit (might have to simul a few feet).

21. 5.9 (35m) – Pull over belay to a slab then slightly left up cracks to trees. Go right to regain rock and continue up to heather and trees. Continue past a tree rap anchor to a two bolt anchor at a comfortable spot to unrope just below the summit of the buttress (belayer might need to simul for a few feet).

All anchors of described pitches are equipped to rap. To rap the route with a single, uncut, 70m rope: 

• Skip the belays for the first two Headwall pitches (P14/15) using the dedicated rap anchors below them instead (marked in blue on topo). The first should use permadraws and hold onto other strand so that the second can rap straight down without having to clean any draws.
• Link the first two roof pitches (P8/9). Rapping straight down will work out.
• Skip the Dike Pitch belay (P6) and use rap anchor. Swing right over to it. It’s hard to see until you’re not far above it. From this anchor, rap straight down, maintaining a small swing, to break between top of the Toe pitches and Shield pitches.
• Rap straight down from P1 anchors to hit intermediate rap that will get you down to the talus.
• Otherwise use normal belays.

Bring ever meter of a 70m rope if you plan to do single rope raps (recommend) and 16 draws (2-4 alpine). All anchors bolted and equipped to rappel.