Disclosure
5.10a YDS 6a French 18 Ewbanks VI+ UIAA 18 ZA E1 5a British
Type: | Sport, 450 ft (136 m), 5 pitches |
FA: | unknown |
Page Views: | 1,913 total · 91/month |
Shared By: | KrisG on Aug 20, 2023 |
Admins: | Luke EF, Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen |
HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).
Description
Disclosure is a route to the summit of Tank Peak that climbs off the upper Midway ledge and follows a series of features and faces up the East side above Ash Canyon. The route itself starts about halfway up from Ash Canyon floor and is intended to be done after climbing other lower crags and connecting everything in a "Full" option from the just off the canyon floor to the summit. Here it is described as the independent upper section only. It includes fully bolted options as well as some trad-protected pitches on the middle pitches.
Start on the Upper Midway ledge above Midway crag (about 500' right/northwest of the Kragle) behind a tall pine tree at the base of the route. There is a huge corner with an overhang above and to the right. Look for glue-in bolts between a couple of shallow, right-facing, zig-zag corners.
Pitch 1, 5.9, 8b, 80': Climb up the zig-zag corners to a mantle onto lower-angle rock on the left. Continue up and left passing a steep overlap, then up easy slab to anchors on a ledge in a left-facing corner.
Pitch 2, 5.8, 7b, 75': Move about 15' left and up to a short, right-facing corner with a face and 3' roof about 50' above. Follow bolts pulling through the roof on good holds, then up and slightly right to an anchor on a ledge. This ledge extends to the right and left with alternate lines off the ledge.
Pitch 2 alternate, 5.6, 4b, 40': Above the belay is a low-angle, left-facing, ledgy corner that angles up and right. Climb the corner to an anchor in another corner with an off-width/chimney above. This anchor is on the lower right end of the same ledge reached by climbing the standard pitch.
Pitch 3, 5.9, 7b, 105': This ledge has two optional bolted lines off it, one straight up (5.10b) and the other up and left (5.9). Move the belay to the anchor up and left about 20'. Start left of the anchor and follow bolts up about 70', then mantle onto a ledge and scramble up another 30' to anchors on another big ledge.
Pitch 3 alternate, 5.10b, 10b, 115': Climb straight up from the belay to a crux move about 10' up, mantling onto the slab above. Continue up the slab to the ledges and anchors on the standard pitch. A fun crux with easier but engaging friction slab climbing above.
Pitch 4, 5.7, 7b, 85': Climb up the ledgy right-facing corner for 30' and onto the low-angle face to the top of the formation.
Pitch 5, 4th class, 120': From the anchors walk straight across a big ledge 70' to a dihedral corner with a crack. Scramble up the corner and to the summit.
Descent: Walk off or rappel as described in the descent options in the Tank Peak, East Face main page.
Location
Start above Midway crag behind the large pine tree. Approach as for the Kragle and continue along the upper Midway ledge to the pine tree. Alternatively (and recommended) climb from Ash Canyon floor at the Ashbrow to the Fringe and up to the Midway ledges. Then climb a top out route at Midway crag to just below the pine tree. See topo photos and description in Tank Peak, East face main page.
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