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The Search for Spoc

5.11+, Trad, 60 ft (18 m),  Avg: 3 from 1 vote
FA: Alex Ruff
Colorado > Dumont vicinity > Abattoir

Description

Follow the crack until it runs into the roof, and then find a good rail just above the bolt to pull the roof and reach the anchor.

I found my fingers didn't fit well in the crack in parts, and I had to use the plentiful but not amazing crimps instead. For me, the roof and crimp face section were about equally difficult, but your mileage may vary.

It's possible to skip the roof by bailing right and then reaching back left to the anchor. This misses half the fun of the route, and the gear wasn't good over there, so I recommend clipping the bolt even though it will be to the left of your path.

Location

It ascends the obvious crack on the right side of the open book shared with Losing Traxion. The two routes share an anchor.

Protection

A singles rack to #1 C4 with doubles in fingers if you don't like nuts and one draw for the bolt in the roof.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

The blue line is Loosing Traxion.
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The red line is The Search for Spoc.
[Hide Photo] The blue line is Loosing Traxion. The red line is The Search for Spoc.